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corollaart

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Everything posted by corollaart

  1. Dave if you look at that pic quickly . It looks very much like them very popular datsuns (1600). Sort of cool but not. rob
  2. Great work Phil ,you have some nice parts there!!! Should turn out a great car. Rob
  3. These guys drink to much tea!!! They are very talented fabricators,love watching this stuff even if it not corolla. rob
  4. Great work Craig ,i thought i seen this for sale?on some site . Removing the front seat cross member is good idea ,i had trouble getting the front seats low enough and back . Do you compensate as far as strength goes. Or do the rhs seat mount make up for this ? Keep up the good work rob
  5. Well if you still need to no ,the charge light wire is the yellow/white at alternator end. The sence pin to alt positive (the big red one).S The L pin to original charge light wire (yellow-white) The i PIN TO 12V SWITCHED. Just a note on the main alt wire to battery replace it with some thing bigger than the original ,mine fryed the wire.
  6. It will need to be converted,has been done many times . This guy has done it all and his parts are good. http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/4age-20v-rwd-conversion
  7. Your right parrot,GEM was reconditioning out fit back in the day. I would at least pull the motor out and disassemble it to see how good or bad it is. If it has stuffed crank or cylinders scrored it maybe cheaper to start with a better engine. I'm sure some one on here would have a good rebuilder engine. The auto will bolt to manual motor you have to remove the clutch and fly wheel and spigot bearing in the end of the crank and fit the auto drive plate. I think you will find that the auto transmission is a holden trimatic ,which toyota adapted to fit the 4k motors,so parts for that should be dime a dozen. rob
  8. Nice work !! getting close now :cool: . rob
  9. Well may i say that you must be the first bloke i no that has a commodore that doesnt leak from the rear main (if its a early model). The 4x4 we will need more info like toyota nissan,isuzu. Balanceing would not be the cause of rear main leak,more to do with incorrect fitment old age or rodeo (speaking from experience in rodeos no cure ) rob
  10. I had one rebuilt by power brakes in SA good to deal with no problems. They are a jap booster so quite expensive to do ,I can dig out the docket if you want ,but from memory around 300. https://www.powerbrakes.com.au/adelaide_brake_specialists_and_restorers rob
  11. I would check every think thats been suggested above. Compression test to see what state the engines in would be my first test. You maybe chasing your tail doing every think else if its toast. Also remember that on older K engines timing chains stretch over time and make a lot of noise. rob
  12. Good write up banjo I would guess that every one thats done this converstion never hooked the warning light up. Neil only fits early 30 boosters ,ke55 different stud pattern. rob
  13. I would like to find some plug wires with a 90 degree plug to the distributor side. The engine is a blue top with factory cover, between cam covers. Would there be any compatible leads out there. The only ones i can find all have straight ends. The cheap ebay ones any good or rubbish? http://www.ebay.com....l8AAOSwvg9XYg-i The reason for this is with scorcher distributor the straight ends are streched to fit the distributor,the 90 degree ends would fix this problem and look better. rob
  14. Its not you brake booster it the pedal goes to the floor ,its your master cylinder . To check you booster pump pedal with engine off till its hard ,hold down on the pedal and start the engine should drop down slightly ,not to the floor!!
  15. Well i will start 1: there is 2 different size fly wheels ,so 2 different size clutches (plates) the centres are the same 200mm or 212mm https://www.google.c...ZlSW9a6dLuJx3M: you will have to convert to hydraulic clutch 3 Thats BS contact ke converstions on here he has mounts to bolt in to ke55 cross member . If its a late model t50 gearbox which i would expect it would be the shifter will about 17-20 mm back from the orginal shift hole in a 55 ( easy fix). https://www.google.c...7GGEm_1UwLlUFM: 2 i would check this first !! I sure others will chime in with the rest
  16. I will now ,as ive got most of left hand wiring loom apart BLZBUB. So i tap into the factory switch on the plug that comes out of the steering colunm? Then the factory head light relay becomes redundant. The head lights are then a stand alone system ,only using the factory switch? rob
  17. Thanks banjo and BLZBUB. I will have look for some wiring diagrams on here for head lights ,just don't like the magic smoke to get out! Blzbub i think will just start again ,as the wreakers here only keep bogan dores. Cold yes peddicting snow tonite,some people get excited about ,I'm not one of them. Thanks Rob
  18. Up to my ass in wiring s@it atm.(4agc to ke55) Replacing the fuseable link because it become very hot the other day ,my thoughts are that the 4a alternaters have a lot more out put than the standard 4k alts. So can i use one of theses www.ebay.com.au/itm/Marine-80-Amp-Contactor-Circuit-Breaker-for-Anchor-Windlass-Five-Oceans-Fre-/181938565704?hash=item2a5c623248:g:MpsAAOSwbdpW Or maybe one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290821587847?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Between alt + and battery + I think the stock ND alternator is around 70 amps ,so 80 would cover this ?? Using new heavy wiring also 140 amp rated. I have a spare harness that i have from one of the parts cars ,the horn and head light wiring are interesting to say the least wtf!! There is no fuse for head lights?? well not that i can find,seems get power from the fuseable link then doubles back and picks up the horn which has a inline fuse in engine bay. Then goes in left hand fire wall to power fuse box and relays. Geez i hate wiring!!!
  19. What about this if it works for a t50 should work for k series. http://locost7.info/files/gearbox/T50SpeedoMods.pdf don't no about the electrical side ,we all no my electrical talent is below average. rob
  20. I can confirm what taz said is right ,my k box speedo went straight in to the t series box. I think Goldberg on toymods was selling speedo gearing. The other way some thing like this that may or may not suit your car. http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/heads-up-display rob
  21. Thanks Dave and Keith The problem started years ago with battery in the boot (because race car )the old 4k would struggle to start . So i tried sam q sugestion of relay and it worked . Having moved on to 4a thought it would be all the same no real change in the wiring to the starter. So today i grabed a big ass truck battery from work and it seems to have solved the problem it turns over very well. So thats one off the list just another 20 or so to go!!!!! thanks rob
  22. Hi Lads Starter is wired as per sam q suggested http://www.sq-engineering.com/index.php/tech-articles/relay-upgrade-for-a-starter-motor The problem is that it has 13.8 volts on terminal 30 ignition on.when you hit start it drops to 3.9 volts. So i tryed the solenoid wire same thing . From what i under stand is that it will need 12 volts at solenoid to work ?? Next i hooked battery from my ute on it same result. I did bench test the starter seemed to do every thing right, I may need to pull it out and check voltage drop when its loaded up ?? Any sugestions as I'm out of tricks!!!Banjo. :doh: Rob
  23. Check for leaks again. The only other thing is are the calipers able to swaped left to right? If you have them on the wrong side the bleeder will be to high or low to remove the air from the system. rob
  24. It sure is noisey,you say the noise goes out as it heats up . Timing chain ,may have a weak tensioner or chain is streched . What else was done to engine? Oil pressure ok?hydralic lifters. Changed or checked pistons rings?compression test. I would take the oil filter off and cut it open to check for metal in the paper. Just some simple stuff to check first. rob
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