altezzaclub

Can you read the maximum advance it goes to at the moment?? You will have to make some extra marks on the pulley with 'whiteout' or 'liquid paper' or simlar, as it should go out to 35degrees or so. It should hit the maximum before 3000rpm, it will be interesting to see if you are losing any power w/o the vac. The idea of it was to advance the timing at low-throttle cruise when the mixture is so weak it doesn't burn well, then drop the timing back to normal for acceleration. Having the dizzy professionally sorted for over a hundred bucks would be best, but you could have a crack yourself. I learnt a lot when I re-did mine.

Some carbs have the size stamped on them, so you can see the number when you look down the throat. The chokes (also called "venturi" becasue that's the effect they have) can sometimes be pulled out by themselves to measure the diameter of the hole, or sometimes are part of a larger fitting. You just pull the carb to bits. You can measure the chokes one way or the other, or you can find out what the Nikki came off and Google that specs of that carb. If the hole is too big it will not give enough air velocity at low revs to pull fuel in properly, and if it is too small the low revs are great but it won't rev so high. (it gets 'choked') If nothing else, you need to spend a couple of hours on the net learning how carbs work and what parts of a carb is important. There is some great stuff around. You should be able to confirm that your carb will work for your motor, and which part of the rev range it will be good or bad at. My inch & 1/4 SUs are smaller than most guys use, and I know they are good at low revs but no good at 6500rpm. They were lean on my motor (designed for a smaller one) when I got them and I had to modify them to get them right. You might have to do the same. If you have had the carb on for 6months and it ran fine, then the problem is probably elsewhere, but if you've just fitted it then it is most likely the trouble. You can see that you have to know plenty about how a car works just to explain to us when is wrong and what the car is doing.

Check the points gap and timing too. As the points age they wear so the gap gets smaller and that retards the ignition timing, which makes it idle slower. Make sure the gap is correct then check timing. A dwell meter is more accurate than feeler gauges, if you have one.

Chase up the Daimler/Jaguar 2.5L V8. Old and simple and on carbs, in all those SP250s and some Jags.

Wind up the idle speed screw.

That's right, both high and low are simultaneously powered at the bulb and the switch earths out one or the other. The relays make the stock lights and bulbs much better. Pull an old strut apart and take a look at the footvalve inside. The RA40 had wet strusts to start with, probably AE86 diameter, I pulled one down to show Steve how it worked.

I find the battery down on the driver's engine mount is fine, unless you're really keen to get those Kg out of the front. Are you going to do the relay mod to the headlights and make them work like they should?? Might as well, while you're doing the wiring. If you have stock wet struts on the front you can re-engineer the valves to give yourself the shock response you want, its not hard. Fill a hole or drill one bigger, pull a shim out... The only thing you'd lack would be gas pressure, but how often will you foam the oil inside unless you're rallying? Certainly an education.

The spring base must be higher above the hub on the Cressida. Either the coilover threaded base solution or cut the current spring base off and reweld it on lower down. We did it on the rally car as per the link in my sig. You'll have to make sure the shock will compress far enough down, which I assume it does. How do these compare in length to the KE70?? If you take the springs off and reassemble the suspension to the ride height you want, do you get negative camber with Cressie LCAs?? How much gas pressure do they have?? That acts to lift the car ride height, a job the springs should do. If it is 50 or 60kg then they will have an efffect, but 10kg would not make a difference. Pop one out and push it halfway down onto a set of bathroom scales then read them as you hold it there. Where in RSA are you?? Do you know the Rolla Club guys in Cape Town??

I wonder if the Nikki is not jetted down enough or has the wrong choke size to run a 3K... When you check for petrol squirting down the throat, read the number off the choke in each throat. Should be 27 to 33 or so.

What revs will it happily run up to Jonty?? Did you get the bottom end balanced?

Where do these hoses go?? One goes to the air cleaner, the one that is bleeding oil fumes into your air filter. I expect the other goes to the inlet manifold and will have a PCV valve in the line. That one allows the motor to suck the fumes away and burn them. How much oil is it using??

Take off the aircleaner top and look down the carb. Open the throttle quickly and see if petrol squirts down into the carb.

Probably not, as 5th resides in the extension housing behind the actual gearbox. Take a close look at the extension housing close to the gearbox, see if they look the same and if the K50 doesn't have a larger bulge on one side.. I haven't got photos of that particular area, I didn't worry about it when I had them side-by-side.

Ignition breakdown- take the bonnet of and go for a drive at night. Look for green sparks jumping off the coil or leads. A- Clean the top of the coil and the dizzy cap, (inside and out) wipe the leads and clean the plugs. Spray with CRC 556 or WD40 or similar, then try it. B- Take the plugs out and compare them, look for a pug that is darker or dirtier than the others. If so it might be that plug, that lead or that pole on the dizzy cap. Swap them around and follow it. Make sure they have the correct gap and the points and timing are correct too. C- Check the points and change the condensor. If there are no obvious sparks jumping off the coil or no dirty lines showing tracking on the top, swap the coil and swap the ballast resistor. That will all eliminate the electrical side of misfires. After that comes carb... enough fuel to cruise, but not enough to feed acceleration. See how you go with the electrics first.

Good idea- That would work... You'll have to throw some photos up for us. Are you up for the Blacksmiths Inn rally in August?? 2.5hrs North of Sydney. Last year was brilliant, so if you can get in as a 00 car or a followup you'd love it.

Ask your local exhaust shop. I paid $215 a few weeks back for Hurricanes! Teq they don't add much by themself, you need a few hundred dollars more spent on a sports exhaust all the way through, inch & 3/4 or 2". Then a better carb and a cam grind to put it all together. However the overall package is chalk and cheese to a stock motor setup.

Yep. If you've got a happy LCA angle that will work through the travel your're going to give it, then match the shocks to work with that. The spring perch is easy to change, but shortening the strut will need a new thread cut in it..... although when we discussed that in the woolshed it was a case of slice the strut in the middle and weld a coilover sleeve over the join! We have't needed that yet.

I just cannot see how they can close the bonnet on that AE86! So if we mount the V6 with two cyls behind the engine mount, like a 4K, where will the gear stick end up?? In the Datsun that I moved the motor backwards in, I had the gearlever turned around to face forward and bent it downwards like buses used to have. That was with two cylinders under the firewall, so the V6 won't be that extreme. That way will certainly help to keep the weight rearwards.

Well, the power will certanly overwhelm the weight difference, but when it comes to the actual weight in the nose, my 16yr-old daughter and I lifted the full 4K out of her Corolla with a length of 4x2 and a rope... So probably well under 100kg. This site lists the 4A (as in 4AC) at 225lb, or 100kg, and the Camry alloy V6 at 400lb (178kg) That 80kg extra plus that giant W gearbox will need quite a bit of balancing by the Hilux in the back. Its a shame no-one uses Alfa transaxles with the gearbox as part of the rear axle. http://fixrambler.com/engineweightchart.txt

Hang on.. lemmee check- Nope, need the next photo to measure when he landed! I was Clerk of the Course organising that rally, so I couldn't enter. I'm sure I marked that yump! Notice how the world was black and white back then...

You can be sure you wont keep the handling characteristics, but you should be able to reset them. There will be a lot more weight in the front. What gearbox would be a question? Can you fit the box you need in the tunnel without cutting it larger?? I suppose a Hilux diff would do it, then new brakes and suspension all round. I was looking at a guy's Holden Sunbird at the weekend.... with a Chev V8 in it! Must have had all of 30mm each side to the chassis rails! .....and the water pump fanbelt bolts had neatly notched the electric fans casing at the front!

Ok, is there a screw acting on a quadrant that adjusts choke idle?? It is separate from the warm idle screw that does the main work of idle speed. If you screw up the choke idle speed that may solve it. If you reckon it is flooding, ie- too much choke, then have another go at adjusting the choke mechanism and reduce it's effect. If the carb has been rejetted with larger jets you might need less choke just from that alone. It will always run richer when driving, hot or cold. However, unless they richened the idle jet as well the idle mixture will stay as lean as it was.

You shouldn't Dave- basically you've moved the "rest" position of the car up from the 50% of stroke midpoint to the 80% mark. You still get 100% of the shock travel, 80% is going down so you can hit bumps better, with only 20% going up. That's why you see these pictures of BDA Escorts with a front wheel in the air, there's not much 'up' travel before the wheel lifts off. That doesn't matter anyway, the inside wheel does nothing for traction so it might as well fly. The shock nut takes that weight without a problem, even my Bilstein mod where I cut the tube down because the thread was damaged. On the other hand, our crappy spot-welded spring seat takes the car landing (and rolling) onto the struts without letting go. I noticed he has had the front springs coil-binding this last rally, so although the struts are strong he wil wreck a shock if he keeps hitting things that hard.

yep- keep the same ride from the spring rate, but the car sits higher. You will lose camber as the LCA sits at a steeper angle downwards, so Sigma arms are ideal.

You mean this one?? Out with the radiator then grab a 3mm & an 8mm drill bit, and find the spotwelds that hold it in. Then a fine steel chisel or an old flatblade screwdriver you don't mind destroying to pry the panels apart.. Castor rod fittings off and it should fall in your hand. Panelbeat the tabs straight and weld the new one on. I have a terrible feeling it will want the bumper off and maybe the grille so you can get access enough to swing tools around. There will be a vertical center support brace for the fittings that will need to come off too, and we had the lower front panel, the gravel tray, welded there somewhere too.