altezzaclub

..and now I've found out that the Muswellbrook road is all tarmec I might go back this way tomorrow to see this pass again!

the road turned back into a steeply cambered gravel, a beautiful river-gravel of rounded stones that were as slippery as ice with steep drops off the road and nothing to stop you but the trees..

It turned to tarmac again, about one & a half cars wide and third gear up those hills for the 3km!! Once at the top you could see all Australia of course...

OK, I came up the black route past Big Jacks, its tar for the first third, then a hard rock based gravel that is not too bad, certainly not loose, and then I came to this wonderful sign

What sort of rough? The carb tune only affects the idle mixture & idle speed, so if its a tuneable problem its more likely in the electrics.. Does it have the electronic dizzy?? Plugs look OK? Compressions all OK? Same as a Datsun really, that's also what I owned for many years. Still got a 510 awaiting resto finish.

OK, currently I'm planning on going up the black dots through Merriwa, but that depends on the rain (or snow) tonight. Choice 2 will be the Coolah one, its a more major road. Then the girl and I can share driving down through Muswellbrook all day Saturday. I'll take a camera...

What are your options? -A 'T' series?? Probably as much work and still not as good. -Another RWD motor entirely, a Beams 3SGE or an MX5 or Honda S2000. Just as much work but a newer motor. -Stick with a K and get a 1500cc or an 1800cc version. Terribly dated and never going to go as well as a DOHC. Depends how fast you want to go I suppose.

I'm off to pick up the girl from Armidale tomorrow bright & early, and there are two ways to get around the bit of NSW with no roads in. One is Orange--> Northwest through Gulgong, maybe Duneedoo & Cassilis to Tamworth. Looks easy, although some roads may be bad if they're wet. Anyone been over those minor roads? The other is Orange--> Bathurst, North to Kandos then Muswellbrook & Tamworth. The road from Kandos north looks pretty spectacular, so I might go up one route and down the other. Anyone been on that bit from Kandos through Rylestone to Muswellbrook? Something you'd take a nice KE70 over this weekend? Its no life sticking on the man roads all the time...

Nice! See if he can find the 28/32, but if not the 32/36 will do. Reco the carb and find the extractors, then pull the head off and match the ports before you have it skimmed. At least you have done all the head work by then and the cam can be done later. I found the manifolds didn't line up very well and it takes time to get it all dead right, but that is better than having manifold bolts come loose later on. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Do you mean these Rollabeams?? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/61875-3sge-beams-quad-throttle-adapter/page__pid__620036#entry620036

lol- Evan is not serious! Swap the plugs sure, but if that doesn't work just pull the idle jets out of the carb and check them. If the rubbish made it into a cylinder and stuck under a valve it would be quite 3 cylindered at low revs, so it sounds like a bit of shit blocking the idle circuit itself. That filter looks like its been backfiring up the carb a lot!

Well, when you build the REAl one, just PM me when you're about to throw this one out! :P

I haven't heard of any intermediate sized pistons that people have used- I gathered these along the way as I investigated it- The 4AGE/4K blend is filfredericks on here.. 9000rpm on a 4K bored out to 5K pistons and a 4AGE head!! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/ If you want to bore it less then spend an hour at your local parts store going through piston catalogues and see what you can find. More grunt definately comes from more cc. Other than that, its carbs, cam, compression and exhaust as usual. I did the basics, but its not meant to be a racer.. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

What you said sounds good- it will all work even better with a better cam of course. 32/36 is quite a lot cheaper than the DCOE, and you could go down a size if you can find one. I think there are 28/32 DGAs around.

With 4K the usual story is that 0.4" is the limit before the valve springs bind, but some of the top people on here have run cams with more lift without problems. I don't know if the 3K retainers are any different to the 4K, but can you mock it up with no head gasket and see?. Have the 4K block sonic tested to find the wall thickness and bore it out to take 5K flat-top pistons. That's been done on here too with good results. The sonic testng will tell the engineers where to set the bores to equalise the wall thickness. I assume you're not going to turbo the motor or race the car.

That's not a big budget... How bad is the motor?? Needs bearings? Needs rebore? If it is OK at the moment then find a Weber downdraught, a set of extractors and get the cam ground. If it need bearings then get a 4K crank, new oil pump and have the flywheel lightened at the same time. ie- convert it to a 4K. If it needs a rebore then see if the block is good enough for 5K pistons. I'll get 5K pistons and a new oil pump next time I pull this one apart- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Yeah, wait until all you youngsters are ol' farts and your kids & grandkids are driving their electric cars and trying to wire ECUs and injectors for their antique 2014 Toyota 86s... then you'll realise how much odd stuff you learned along the way. Like a Chupachop picks up dust.. :laff:

Lol- Local law... problem of being an immigrant.. in fact my wife tells me I have to carry a licence every time I drive, and my brother (who sat his truck licence last week) tells me I don't. Maybe its a QLD versus NSW thing. All to confusing in a country with States. and- 1500cc/4=375cc per cyl. Head gasket vol 7cc, head volume 31cc, piston dish 5cc. Full cyl volume 375+7+31+5, compressed into 7+31+5 418cc to 43cc=9.72 to 1 Yep, you're right Jono, goes from 9.4 to 1 to 9.7, doesn't reach 10:1

WTF! You have to be kidding me! I'm sure there's no regulation that says you have to show the gears on the gearknob! Mine shows FWD<->4WD...... A genuine Toyota item! Stixy I can't think of a way to check the bore without looking iside, but it would need 5K flat-top pistons and would put the compression up to 10:1 or so. Should go well!

Are you using paint stripper first? Well worth it, it gets down to the undercoat pretty quickly, one or maybe two coats of stripper and a quick scrape off.

Why don't you take the springs out of the car completely and set it on jacks to the ride height you want. Then measure how much travel you have left before you hit the bump stops. That will tell you how much compression you needs in a spring, and you could soon work out (or ask a suspension shop) what spring rates will do that. If you have half the travel compared to stock you will need twice the spring rate. With a spring selected you can then find shocks that will not bottom out before you hit the bump stops and still keep the springs captive. Probably the physical sizes will determine what brand you buy.

That would be so if its the Torsen centre that the Altezza uses. Once one wheel loses all traction it stops operating. Best would be a clutchpack type, unlocks under deceleration so the car turns in well then locks up more and more as you put more power through it. Had one but I sold it recently.

Rear parking radar... Rear foglights... Anti-pursuit oil sprayer.. Rear wing deflection motor.. Revolving number plate motor.. Stick in a multimeter & see when its live. Ben is probably dead right-

There must be a cold start bypass in the inlet system somewhere that does the same job as a choke. I'm just researching the Pintara's CA20 one as that is stalling now the days are below zero in the morning. How low will it run? 1000rpm? Have you run it long enough to warm it right up? If its anything like the Nissan setup, the TPS should be telling the computer that the throttle is at idle position, and the computer should be opening the idle air control to regulate idle speed. So a problem in either of those would mean it wouldn't idle.

Nearly done! Is the mixture under control now, or will you have to re-jet the Weber?