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Its very easy to adjust pre-load and backlash, all you need is access to a vice and dial gauge.

at least 2t has an alloy head, but 7k would be relatively easy.

You mean like there is oil over the plug leads when you pull them off the plugs? if so that would most likely be the seals, mine are leaking on my engine too, couldn't get new ones anymore so just got some sealant and put a bit of that on the old seals, still leaks a tiny bit but not as much as before. Also stalling could be air leak, spray water or carby cleaner around the intake manifold and carby base, if you use water it will make the engine die if there is a air leak and if you use carby cleaner the engine revs will rise. Failing that could just be split/torn/loose vacuum lines, check them all, if thats the problem just go and get some more, not too expensive.

much more aftermarket support for 2t and 3t engine, also a nice mild 2TG should go well in a KE30.

fair enough, what size tyres?

Hey, I wasn't kidding I have 15x8 0 with 195/50's and they sit fine, only front guards needed to be rolled, should be the same as a ke70. If you want to come over one day and check fitment I'm home during the day, or one weekend, I could come over as ive currently got the wheels off my car.

just go 8" 0 offset all round.

very nice, The weber makes a little difference but not worth the extra fuel it uses. Teaser pic, hehe (no where near finished) might sell the quad light setup to suit T18 when I'm completely done.There is a decent amount of work required, cutting and modding guards, and alot of little things.

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what springs are they? if they are king springs then they won't be 8kg or 6kg unless they are coilover springs, the 8kg springs in mine you cannot move the car at all when you sit on it or try to bounce it, also off topic those quad lights need the guards to be cut up and shortened and remade pretty much to fit those quad lights on T18.

Wheel bearing kit for mine (small axle) was about $60 I think, can't remember was $200 for frt bearings, rear bearings, new brake shoes and new rear wheel cylinders, so something like that.

well I have 8kg in the front of mine with tokico inserts and it doesn't feel much stiffer than it was before with cut springs.

haha, thanks. http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=110 http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=313 http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=789 http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=792 http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=816 http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=803 http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=737 that should do nicely, and while the aussie dollar is high too, off to bed now another day of trying to make these lights fit my T18 then wiring up my other spot lights, haha.

haha, wtf?

Heres mine has had a few different wheels, but I love it, low loud and different, haha. Running STD 3t with 38/38 weber with pacemaker extractors with 2" all the way with 1 hotdog muffler Brand new corona LCA's with MA61 supra coilovers and brakes, with tokico inserts, wheels on it atm are koya ae teks 15x8" 0 offset with 195/50R15 tyres. need to get my rear 6kg springs and TRD blue shocks in as well.

Front - corona length LCAs, ae86 PS arms, coilovers with 8kg springs and shocks to suit (SW20 MR2 rear shocks and techno toy tuning spacer would be good), rebuild brakes if keeping T18 struts otherwise upgrade to something a little bigger nothing over the top (its only a sub 1ton car) and there is not really much you can do about the steering box just get a ke70 xmember and cut the t series mounts off the old one and weld them onto the ke one (what I will be doing with mine) then use a ke70 steering shaft with uni joint. For the rear get 6kg springs + short stroke shocks, get swaybar mounts and weld them on if yours doesn't have a rear swaybar like mine, go on ebay US and get a brace kit of there for an ae86 (about $150AUD delivered) includes front strut brace, rear strut brace and a C pillar brace. AS well as some good wheels and wider tyres, then build a very nice 3tg hybrid.

the crown wheel is bolted to the diff center (I.E your LSD) and the pinion (edit LRS) is bolted to say it simple to the diff housing, a 4.77 CW and pinion will have your speedo saying something about 160kmh when your only doing 110, very good for drifting, ect I think most people use 4.3 good all round still probably a bit high if you use the highway a lot.

5k or 4age, you look up the prices!!!!!!!!!! everything is different!

Just stop wasting peoples time, if you want an upgrade that you can afford as an apprentice just go a nice mild 5k it will be plenty of fun on the dirt. A sr conversion will probably cost nearly half a years wage if you are a first year, engine and gbox is about $1500, bigger diff, cost of cutting diff down and modding it, custom tailshaft, the list goes on right there is roughly 3-4k so on a first year wage with little to no experience with something like that you will be very poor saving for weeks just to buy one part and that is if you have no other expenses. Or 4age is pretty easy as well. Another thing is if that is your only car that you have so you can get your exemption how will you get to work?? as that is your only car and if you do SR you will be working on it for months, so I don't see this as practical or doable unless mummy and daddy are rich to pay for parts, ect.

Ye, I am a mechanic as well on my P's I have a exemption from QLD transport to drive high powered/V8/turbo or supercharged cars as we do have some of them that come in an have to test drive them :) always. BUT the exemption is ONLY valid through work hours as I would think yours is aswell so not much point in using that an an excuse also when the police look up who owns the car they will see that you own it and it is not a customers car.

I did nearly the exact same conversion in the T18, ma61 coilovers, brakes, T3 RCA and T3 steering arms, with brand new corona LCA's and I just wound out the tie rod ends more to suit and measured them very roughly then I did a wheel alignment at work (toe was still out by like 20 haha), if you lived down the road I could do it for you but your a bit far away, haha.

Me? yes they will be I will make them fit, I will be finding a ke70 flat front guard to measure and modify the front of my guards, see the T18 ones are longer and have a different part on them for the park lights, I would just use ke70 ones but they rear part is different from T18 to fit the different door shape, just lots of small different things, will also require a flat front bonnet too as the T18 has a slight point down the middle but will just leave it till last till I get everything else sorted. Also getting semi sealed lights and wiring them so all 4 lights come on on low beam and high beam instead of just the outside lights coming on low beam.

Found out the hard way that those quad lights will not fit a T18 due to the guards being longer and different you can't fit the light surrounds around the lights, and you can't use ke70 guards to make them fit because the door shapes are different but I might just cut and modify my guards due to having a spare pair of T18 ones. PM me if you want more details.

MY pedal got spongey when I put in MA61 supra brakes, its just like when putting 4 piston calipers on you need a different master cylinder (R32 ABS for 4 piston but unsure about these)

Maybe, if you can get it for that price then yes! I will be putting quad lights on my T18 soon so I can show a picture of what it will look like. Also check to see if you will need a new beaver panel or if you will need to mod yours, I am not sure if T18 ones need to be changed/modified.