LittleRedSpirit

Your interior is awesome, Davros. Very tasteful selection of colours and I love the 'C'.

Cool. I mean fuggin sick mateeeeeeeeeee!!

My business partners supercharged tonner is an interesting machine. Scary amount of power on a blown LS!. Hes got the kappa kit for 6psi on a standard motor. Its a very turbo looking unit, it just mounts on a bracket, and spins on a multirib belt. The belt slips all the time and needs upgrading to a Gilmer driver. Funny thing is, if you drive the car, its actually got a coupe thousand rpm of lag until it takes off. When you rev it out though, its insane!! If it were me Id go turbo cause Id like to design a system which still lets me rev to 8000rpm plus.

Out of respect for all the amazing cars you guys have created, I have pinned this thread. That way we all can be inspired!

Thats insane, if you have a cage you might be able to get away with some, but I wouldnt bother. Ontopic, there is one forum member who has a legendarily light ke70 rallycar, Ive heard in the ballpark of 700kgs. It is a mythical creature whos' ovarian cycle depends on the gravitational balance between the moon and its upright k heart.

Even if its bolt upright its still not going to be crossflow. I say go for it, nobody here has the right to tell you to spend your time and money wisely now do they. Make us a worklog so we can see what you did, it may help future rollaclubbers who want to do this mod. I still personally haven't cottoned on to an exact and decisive reason for doing it, in all but race applications. I accept that if you had more space for decent carbs it would be an advantage, and possibly the car would be better balanced with a more vertical and centred motor, although you would be elevating the motors centre of gravity also. I see these advantages as minimal gain when most engines with high HP potential applications in corollas are already upright. I think all that uneven wear stuff is pretty out there. Like someone said, why doesnt every v motor suffer the same fate, or every 5sfe camry, etc? Seems like a bit of hype. Anyhow, its your baby, don't let everyone get you upset, they are just saying what they think, as are you, so just enjoy the privelige of free speech at its finest and if you are still keen to do it after all that people have been saying (including those with actual TRD upright engine kits), then who are we to doubt your commitment and resolve. Go for it.

Cars looking very Decent, Ryan. can't wait to see it with turbo 3s power. Yours is an 86 half cage just bolted into the keto, is it not? I'm thinking I need one. Actually bought one on Ebay and couldn't get the seller to contact me or answer his phone. Id expect it made a pretty decent difference to the feel of the car? Definately will catch up when I'm up the coast next. Have you considered Coming on the 'best of all' cruise which Jip is organising? Ill get you the info...

The diff will not bolt in, if your lucky it will be a w57 gearbox, which would be a tuff choice for you, especially going turbo. Gonna need some good rods to do a turbo 7age. I reckon you should decide right now if you want to turbo the 7a or not, as I wouldn't go to the effort or expense of a w57 for an atmo 7age personally, when t50s are cheap and easy to get. Let us know how you go. Love a good paddock find! Put pics in the rusty relics thread.

Corona stuff, generally is T series stuff. You wont need a stronger driveline than that if you are using a atmo 4A. There is information available about which diffs are in which car in table form on the net if you look for it. The Corona could have a decent gearbox and diff but we need more info than "1983ish corona". There will be a tranny code on the firewall, look it up.

The way they look they are kind of opposite to dish. Get the JDM ones!

Dunlop Direzzas, very thick sidewalls, good grip, good tyre for just 140 a tyre. Directional. Ive been using 195/5015s. Also got Dunlop Lemans Lm702? i think. Very good tyres. No where near the Direzzas, about 125 a tyre.

As said above. The best budget upgrade is probably corona fron suspension, and cut standard springs with commodoore shocks. I have cut standards in my spirit, and they are phonomenal for grip. Most people do not get the softer is better thing for grip, they have a misguided assumption that stiffer is better. Its good to see someone who knows better. The shocks I have are GT gas monroes, the same fitment as above (KE70Daves Suggetion). Keep my springs nice and captive. I used to have cut corona springs but they were far too stiff for grip. Font end wise, XT130 Struts and Lower control arms, all complete with brakes and steering arms will work fine. For a little extra security you may want to use the turnbuckle style adjuster tubes and tie rod ends from an RA40 to connect the rack to the steering arms. This gives you the 51mm od tubes which fit all the good shocks. It also gives you negative camber as you know. It will also look far too factory for a cop to ever pick up on. The stud pattern will remain the same too, so its win, win. May the force be with you. The total cost of the above mods including all new shocks should be 5-6hundred, leaving money over for either better dampers, or swaybars, etc. If it was me Id buy a Prothane bushing kit from T3 and do the lot myself, then spend the rest on decent tyres.

No such thing as a cheap diff, I reckon. Dunno much about Tarago diffs. Not many people use them because they need mounts, and spring hats welded on in the correct spot, like any other diff does. Most people use a t18 diff in a ke70, it bolts in perfectly and is a jap Banjo style diff, T series etc and some even have swaybar mounts. Can get LSDs for them easy as pie. You can also use T series Corona diffs or Celica (ra40-60) diffs which bolt in, sort of. The spring hats are not in the right spot by 15mm a side and the upper arms are 12mm a side wrong, but some people just force it all together. Will need a shortened tailshaft with either of these options, again costing money. If you are willing to get a housing modified then you can use most any diff you like, if its close to the correct width. Its not really a cheap option either, as it can cost up to 500 dollars to mod a housing if you have to pay a diff shop to do it.

Gday mate. Welcome to Rollaclub, its always good to see what our Corolla loving cousins on other continents are up to. The car looks fabulous so far, a nice starting point, and a nice motor for her. Keep up the good work and please keep us posted! How hard was the TE27 diff to get? They're a T series leaf sprung setup? I heard thats what they were and thats what it looks like to me, anyhow. :POSTPICS!:

I love how it handles, and I love how it looks like a pile of crap and still beats most people in 40 thousand dollar cars off the lights. I hate how I have zero demisting capabilities.

Mate, Ive seen this car Ipswich motorway maybe 8 months ago, I overtook you in my red 71 and tooted. Itll be back better than ever I hope. Ive got some gaurds if you need em, really cheap.

WWWWWWWWWWOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWWWWW

A man of principle, I admire you.

Thats what I was telling you. Man up and get the freaking hose in there!!! Need some pressure to shift all the crap. If you really want to be fussy, then leave the muckowt in there for about 2 days or a week even, then change it. You don't need coolant in there really, but it protects and prolongs the engines life. Just don't leave muckowt or town water in there forever. Its ok in the short term.

You can buy a silvertop 20valve for 750 bucks up here in Brissy. Thats for a long motor with flywheel, quads and full intake, alternator and starter and headers! Get a loom made and an aftermarket ecu and it would be tons of fun. It will cost you a fair amount though. Probably 3000 dollars all up. You wouldn't have to go aftermarket ecu, its just that Ive heard mixed reviews on silvertop factory ecus in Australian conditions. On the other hand, the smallport or 100kw version are available in Australia in front wheel drive form, just have to raid an ae92 twincam for the bits, including factory loom and ecu, saving tons of money. Suspension tuning is also expensive to do properly. You can go as far as you want, springs and shocks and bushes, or coilovers and cambertops, big brakes.... the list goes on... I guess you just need to be realistic about your budget and be honest with yourself about what you can achieve.

Well done mate. Mission accomplished! Hose clamps take up to 3 attempts to tighten with a screwdriver.

Another thing Ive forgotten in my haste. Its a good idea to go to Dick Smiths and grab a probe type thermometer to use to test the thermostat. We've com this far so why not invest in a Gregorys manual to explain these types of things correctly. The thermostat will be designed to open at a certain temperature. I'm guessing 180 farenheit, by what you have written. I think you should heat it up slowly in a saucepan and see if it opens at 180f. Not sure if its correct for a 4k, need a manual for that, or someone who knows, lol. Faq perhaps?

Personally I'm not a big fan of gaskets. The surfaces can, after 20 years become deteriorated. Thats why I prefer Bluemax, its a high temp silicon product which will not be as bothered about whether the two surfaces are pistine. Gaskets need two straight surfaces to connect to. Thats how I would do it. The thermostat should just sit centered on the motor and then the housing pins it there? I think thats how it seems to work? Not sure on a 4k, anyone?

Spotted, Medicine man on Main st Kangaroo point today. Waved, think you saw me, we could have high fived we passed that close.

Nothing really should be hitting the distributor. Mate, get the fuggin hose in there. If you cannot get the hose off, just open the tap and hook the hose up to the core and flush the shit out of the whole lot. If its too blocked you will need to pull it apart. Ive said it before, Ill say it again, man up. There are tricks to most everything, so just get stuck in, think before you yank, and don't be too worried. The thermostat is a little valve which is temperature operated. When its closed, the water circulates around the engine only. When its open, the water also passes through the radiator to get some cooling done and maintain the temperature. The thermostat is under a bolt on cover at the front of the motor I think on a 4k. Put a pic up and someone will highlight it for you. They are a classic spot where gunk gathers. They are also pretty unreliable, and if you are going to remove gunk from the cooling system then it will definitely need doing. You can fill it with tap water mixed with muckowt to clean it, just need demineralised water in there for the long term once its clean.