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First and last time I was there they wanted $100 for a pair of corona LCA's, just said, nah all good.

Message or call Dave from AJPS.com.au, he will be able to get you any spring rate made to suit any strut, i.e use your ke70 bottom perch to suit an ae86 camber plate.

I've got a whole ke70 borg warner you can have for nothing, everything is there except for the housing itself, but all the axles, center and whatnot are there. PM me if you want it,

Nothing with an engine conversion is straight forward, haha. Any car, any conversion.

Yep, thought you would be interested and in Brisbane now you have a spare radiator as well, haha. Is the one you have mounted now a dual core one? Can't remember.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-CELICA-ZZT231-MANUAL-COMPLETE-RADIATOR-WITH-FANS-1999-TO-2005-9404-/170929067095?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cc2a9457

Toyota FIPG is good for just about anything but as said should be able to get a proper gasket or as said get some gasket paper and make one.

T series should be alright if you leave it charged.

Try unplugging and checking the fuse able link near the battery that was the problem with my T18.

You'll need to remove the manifold obviously so I would put the extractors on at the same time.

That is a very interesting front setup.

Sikaflex but wouldn't use double sided tape to hold flares on. My rear flares I cut the original rear flare off, welded the old inner guard to where the outer guard was and then used roofing self drilling screws because they have the rubber washer on them. Then for the fronts just cut off the old wheel arch and nut and bolt, although that's on a T18 and probably completely different to a ke20 haha.

I hope you got the diff straitened after welding that on? Would have bent more with all that weld on there.

This is cool! what engine are you going to run, as I'm sure a 3t would have a hard time turning those wheels haha.

3TG hybrid for performance but 2tg will be easier.

Any good mechanic should be able to generally just look at a car and be able to work on it. Doesn't matter what car especially if they can't work on a simple old corolla they shouldn't be working.

You could get one sent from here for probably same price as getting a car shipped from Japan to australia, which from what I have read is about 3k give or take a bit. you should be able to pick up a pretty clean one here for a reasonable price, I would assume shipping from northern part of Australia would be cheaper as a bit closer.

It's the opposite here in Australia I think I don't think we got any 4 door ke20's only all 2 doors.

Got back from kerry (darlington park) yesterday, cheap to camp there and lots to do if you like going for a drive and walk. I would have done more but got a flat and didn't want to get another. There is a kiosk there as well with firewood and any other food and most items if you need. http://www.exploreaustralia.net.au/Queensland/Gold-Coast-and-Hinterland/Beaudesert/Darlington-Park-camping-area#

Whats that steering column out of?

Could just be as simple as a stuffed battery not holding charge for long. Probably something simple like above mentioned or something else easy. OR just go buy a cheap $80 jumpstarter and keep it in the car and plug it in when you get home haha.

Yeah same as on the T18, should take all of 60 seconds to pull off radiator hoses and unplug fan wiring and 2 10mm bolts to remove mine haha. I still have to use some steel or stainless bends for radiator hoses hardly any room in the engine bay haha. Even with the radiator tilted forward.

Ah yeah didn't think of that, I had to take out the drain plug on the bottom and put a bolt with rubber washer in from my other radiator I had, didn't have enough room inbetween the rails.

Looks like yellow to me, but I'm colour blind so what I say about colours means nothing haha.

Yeah don't think it would be a problem I'm probably just going to run a normal radiator cap instead because I need to use a solid bent pipe as well as rad hose due to room and how the hoses have to go, so ill just get a normal radiator cap welded in there and run a normal setup I don't like those expansion ones. Not that there is anything wrong with them really, only thing I could see being a problem having rad that way would be on mine the hose barb for overflow tank is on the bottom and might not be ideal being it 's normally ontop.