altezzaclub

Nasty! I'm amazed you can register a car like that, Sweden always seems so safe and over-governed. It must be fun to drive!

I'm using a narrow-band, I'm used to it and it makes sense to me. Until I see a wide-band working I don't know what the difference is. It covers from 14.7 down to 11 and up to 20, and once it is warmed up after a minute or two it is quite stable. I think the changes are faster in the narrow-band, so it flicks from 14 to 18, then sits there on constant throttle. When you touch the throttle next it changes very fast again. The damage to the cat sound like mechanical damage, not chemical contamination, if it rattles. The alcohol fuel should be fine in it, I haven't heard of it affecting other cars. As everyone knows, if it was me I'd be down at the wrecker buying the biggest, cheapest cat there...

That looks very sweet! Amazingly rust-free for an island!

If they look the same they are the same. The banjo diffs are made of stamped steel plates welded together, the Borgies are cast. The borgies have the access plate bolted on the back, as you saw, while the banjos have the complete removeable diff unit that bolts onto the housing from the front. The ratios I would expect to be different, but I don't know. The auto 4K uses a 4.3, the manual 4K uses a 4.1, so with the extra power of the 4A they should have lowered the ratio from whatever the 4K wagon uses.. Use the T50 tailshaft, the rear ends will be the same, the fronts different and the lengths might be different. If you repeat whatever you did to bust the AE71 diff, the other will break just as quickly.....

Busted!! I know nothing about it and HE is meant to be studying flat-out for finals exams!

Is the fuel level full to the top of the window or hallf-way up?

haha! well done! One for free is good, but two for free is superb! So, I assume the yellow one will become metalflake blue... You have two different diff ratios now too, you can run the auto 4.3 instead if the manual's 4.1 for more acceleration, or if you run larger 14 or15" tyres..

The throat is skull-shaped rather than circular, and that apparently gives better atomisation. Apart from that the mixture adjuster is the usual, SUs wind the jet down while they wind the needle up. You still need a range of needles to get mixture adjustment within the rev range. Still, nice to have new carbs around without worn-out throttle plate axles and bushes. Four 36mm would do the job, $775 EACH for billets, or $375 each for cast 38mm.

the 5k is hydraulic tappets, so it has a suitable cam and suitable followers. The 3K cam will be ground to solid lifter specs and shouldn't be used on hydraulics. Saying that, I don't know how damaging it would be! You'll run into problems getting the two heads matched too, as far as rockers and pushrods go. If I were you I'd swap the 3K in and build the 5K on the bench so you keep the car running all the time. Get the 5K sorted and turbo'd, then swap it back in over the holidays. Stick to just using 5K parts on it and keeping it hydraulic for simplicity. You'll have to custom make the manifolds. so you can put the turbo/carb anywhere. Being non-crossflow is ideal if you don't want a n intercooler. So the big question is 'do you want an intercooler'?

It sounds like it is working at its peak capacity. Pull the rad out and flush it with a hose while upside-dowm. Blast as much water through the block as you can while the rad and t'stat are out, although a '94 shoudln't be blocked up that much. My 4K had a thick layer of rust particles in the bottom of the water jackets and bridging the waterways a lot.. If nothing much comes out of the radiator, it might be the water pump having corrosion issues. You might have to take that off and see what the vanes look like. Put a nylon stocking over the end of the top rad hose and see if it collects anything once its all been flushed.

Is that driving slowly at less than 50kph or idling?? Maybe the fans are not coming on until the temp goes up enough to trigger the fan sensor, and once they are running it cools down. When you're driving at speed the airflow will keep it cool. Get a real thermometer and put in in the radiator before you start the car one morning. Fire it up and let it idle until it comes up to temp. Compare the thermometer to the gauge and see what 'halfway' is in degreesC. It should run around 80deg.

What part of a dyno shop are you after?? Re-map for afm? Power runs for timing setup? I'm just wondering how hard it can be to do it yourself... There must be data-collecting software that will record air/fuel ratios from the oxy sensor, injection cycles for the injectors and ignition timing while you blast up a hill on full throttle. A smartphone will give you acceleration rates and then power in KW.

That's a good start, especially for the price! All the usual na mods in cam/carbs/exhaust, or going blown?

Running the locked diff will stress and twist the axles and the crownwheel & pinion teeth, so it would pay to keep the locker for fun and use a good open diff for daily. The locker will tend to have bits of metal floating around in there too, the rally car diff oil was like metalflake paint!.

The 5speed is the nice way to do it, but if you're desperate then hit the wreckers and get a pair of taller tyres or 14" steelies off a Corona/Celcia. Rims are $10 each and tyres $20... You can easily work out the ratios involved, I've been swapping through 4.3 to 3.9 with tyres, gearboxes and diffs. I've just gone down to 195/60 tyres which has effectively changed my diff ratio from 3.9 to just over 4.1.

Arrgh! FLORIDA! No wonder you can't find one! Hopefully someone on here has one, or can get some measurements off one and we can see if something else fits. Have you tried you local brake shop? & are the other ones OK? Not worn where they hook on the shoes?

2mm toe-in is normal, its not much with neg camber. Its the only way to spread the strees from the inner treads across the tyre face. If you run toe-out you wear the inner treads to shreds, and if you run neg camber you wear the inner treads away, so running both together destroys the inner edges fast. The Altezza/IS200s are prone to that. Having toe-out on the rear axle is surprising, that will make it over-steery and prone to bump steer. We reinforced the back face of a Stanza live rear axle with a big plate welded across it, and the welding distorted it into arching back so it suddenly had toe-out in the rear. Great fun on dry tarmac, but hopelessly tail-happy on gravel.

...aaand, its a daily from yesterday... The wife got up at 6.30am & said "there's a problem in the driveway.." I checked, and NO PINTARA! Somebody stole her White Whale and it was already burning as we phoned the cops. Some scum stole the tools from the electrician's ute across the road and used her wagon to take them back home, then torched the wagon. Anyway, the smaller tyres do make the KE70 more sprightly around town again, as we've now found out!

Ah- rallying is a harsh mistress... So mechanically its OK, but a new shell and a cage again. It alwys takes longer to fix that you think too! :(

Nice mixed bag of cars... I assume having an LSD puts you into a special class, the most useful item to use.

I look at the cam and my fingers itch for the MIG welder... Just a little spot of weld and a file or lathe would do it! Maybe the motor was planned to be turbo'd! Cartainly you will have to decide on either combustion in the piston dish with the D-shape, or in the head with that 4K head, so replace either the pistons or the head. Should be a challenge!

Ah, some action at last! That's pretty sad about the Weber sock, I didn't expect that to happen. Damm zipties are not up to it! I hope you didn't just tie a bit of cloth straight across the top of the carb! Education is expensive... So much to learn! So, what is your bro going to do with the three cars he's owns when none of them run! ?? Hmmm... so, what caused it to break off if it doesn't get hit by another tooth?? Still, it was a good thing you pulled it out again and checked it! Yep! Working late at night is not good! ..and the floor STILL isn't painted to make it easy-clean! OK, I've got the little busbar we need for the ammeter, bro John is talking about coming down to stay wih me & going to Bathurst V8s, and that all ties in with dropping him back up at Coolies then fetching The Girl .BSc from Uni just as you have your last exams. Then we can hit it! That mudguard looks OK at night! lol!

That is crazy! Did you have to trim and weld the guards under the flares, or just roll them out of the way? You must have smoother roads than we do in NSW! Can you get chrome bumpers over there?

Beautiful!! Definately very rare, I think a few made it to South Africa when I was living there.

Any dramas fitting them?? Same guides? Same length and colletts? Is it a Fiat seat machined into the K head? That would be quite a performance upgrade just by itself. Nice job on the carbs, that one pictured was pretty bad.