altezzaclub

Looks like a great place to put a battery... down low at chassis level.

Mezzanine time... the sections we took off weighed a couple of hundred Kg each, and they were too wide for the door. That meant putting them inside longways, laying them on a couple of crawlers and the handtruck/engine stand, and turning them 90deg. That was the easy part! Then picking them up again and lifting them onto the posts. They went back together within a mm or two & we screwed the sections down and added the planks we'd taken off. Job finally done, a storage area with 2.2M headroom underneath ! Then the hoist could be fitted- First the pillars were stood upright, which was done by just heaving them up with the two left-handed cripples. Then lots of measuring and checking, then drilling 18mm holes for the concrete bolts. The concrete man who poured the slab was kind enough to loan us a giant drill bit and we got stuck in. The bolts torque down to 150lb-ft, and the final job was fitting the top crosspiece about 4M up. I'm back home now, ToyotaNats this weekend over Easter as a distraction, then inlaws visiting from overseas, then back up there to finish the hoist assembly and wiring. THEN start a rally car again! ...well... first some tools and jacks and parts and everything that makes a shed a workshop!

Soon! Soon.. sometime!.. so many distractions! We took the tractor up & sliced sheets of ply which we screwed to the top beam, which bird-proofed the shed. I assume they left a big gap as it was a fuel storage shed full of fuel tanks years ago, and the swallows flew in to shit over everything. Then the workshop did its first job!! We drove the Mothership up for something or other & I felt the propshaft vibration straightaway. So it was under the truck on our trolleys and then races around the super-smooth concrete! Then Steve bought an antennae & grabbed an old aerial of his Dad's. Then took quite some repairing.. We put the birdply pallet we used back on the tractor & lifted the pole up vertically, and fixed it to the Woolshed. That was exciting... A kiddie stool on top of a tyre & Steve could reach the wires he left too short.. Now we have Wi-fi for 100M around at 37Mbps! The farmhouse gets less than 2 on its Telstra phone line!! We grabbed three steel pillars from the car storage shed we'd rebuilt the mezzanine in a year ago. These were cleaned up and had feet welded on, ready for painting today. We'll have half new pillars, half bolted onto the shed structure. We'd started drilling half-inch holes into the shed's pillars to mount the new mezzanine 2.2M high, but with Steve's wrist not too good I was doing that. Of course the drill bit jammed in my one hand above my head and twisted my wrist off! The hospital said its not broken but we're two left-handers with heavy work for this trip. Of course the promised rain this week meant most days are spent on a tractor discing up a hundred hectares in various paddocks & sowing it, then going over it with harrows.

Rob just popped by with a clamp ammeter.. the Hoonicorn 4K starter pulls 160amps initially, then drops to 100amps as it cranks. Just in case anyone was wondering... Should've done the 4AGE in the Girls KE70 too, dammit!

OK, the problem isn't the choke sticking closed. Somewhere in the carb there is fuel pissing into the motor where it shouldn't. One spot would be the needle & seat valve that sets the fuel level in the bowl. That would make it rich all the time, so what sort of L/100km are you getting? 7L/100km on a trip would be fine, maybe up to 9L/100 around town.

In '83 they changed from flat-front to slanty, I have two '83s, one of each. Basically all is different from the windscreen forward, including the radiator panel. The slanty was made into the AE71 with its 4A motor, so they are sort after for 4AGE conversions. The flat-fronts are most popular with enthusiasts, especially converting them back to chrome bumpers and 4 round headlights. They won't bolt onto slantys, although I have seen it done.

I haven't worked with 4A-c motors, except to throw them out.. but if you take the air cleaner off and look down the carb, does the choke flap open as it warms up?? I expect that the bimetallic spring closes the choke when the car is switched off, and when the ignition is on it slowly lets the choke flap open up. Look down the carb before you start the car, check the choke flap, and keep an eye on it as it warns up.

Do you think you will need more suspension travel than normal, or just more height?? If you just want more height you can move the body up on the suspension. At the front this means keeping the shock & spring as it is & building some new mount on the body. However, this also does funny things to your suspension... The LCAs and the tie-rod ends will droop terribly & you will get bump steer and big track changes. The castor will increase as the strut gets pulled forward. The camber will become more positive as the wheels tuck under... At the rear the arms will hang down so you get more fore 'n aft travel of the diff nose. This will make the driveshaft move further in & out between the up and down in the suspension. The panhard rod will pull the diff over to one side of the car more too. The extra angle on the universal joints won't do them any good either, they will get more of a difference in speed in each 1/4 turn of the shaft. If you want more suspension travel as well, it gets more complex.. then the shocks need more travel, and the springs will probably need that too. Finding longer shocks might be quite difficult. See what you can find in the way of suspension animations on Google, and jack the car up with shocks disconnected to see what it looks like and what will go wrong. Once you get an idea of how many mm you want to raise it we can sort out how to do it. We raised the rally car in the nose very simply by re-welding the spring mount.

Bahaha!! I KNEW you would want it back someday. Just build another one, update all the problems you found and improve it!

Yep, it took me a long time to realise, but its the one thing on a car I always buy factory now. Luckily one Toyota filter fits 4K, 4AGE & 3SGE!

Now that is clever!

Chop the thing to bits and leave the rim to stop air vortices. You gain so much clear core area, and the blades can be smaller.. Shame about the inbuilt overflow bottle!

I don't think the fan need a cowling, the cowl just blocks airflow for the other 90% of the time. It only needs to remove a small amount of heat from an idling engine, and a slight breeze through the rad seems to do it. Weigh both rads empty and measure the volume they hold as you do it. The alloy rad I bought is lighter than the stock, but holds more water to end up as the same total weight. I'm always worried about sticking more weight in the nose. Overall thermoswitched fans are great! A quieter motor, extra engine power, and they hardly ever come on.

Dunno, but when we bought The Girls KE70 the filter emptied every night and rattled the bearings every morning. I had to change them later. I thought that was lack of drainback valve, but maybe it was a lack of anti-syphon valve. I suppose we need both in a 4K with the filter upside down. Lack of either will let the oil drain out but more will drain from the inlet side back to the sump. The outlet side will only drain back to cam level. I think your anti-drainback valve might not be sealing jeremy.

Great stuff! Get out into the mountains with it and see what it does! Love the way the heatsink puts both head temps up when you turn it off, but the hose temp goes down. Very distinct.

Nope, it looks like they are- "Part No: 25-3434(PAIR) TOYOTA COROLLA 81 - 85 KE70" As it happened, they couldn't get hold of them (of course they never actually had any..) and sent Gabriels plus a pair of rack ends for the money I'd paid. I'm happy with that, 99autoshop on Ebay, they seem fine.

Go lie under a few vans at the wreckers. They have leaf springd, 5-links, disc brakes.. all sorts. You can expect to modify mounts and brakes, but they will haul a load and aren't that much wider.

What would you like?? I've got wiring diagrams, error codes and stuff for Altezzas, if that's the model 3SGE you have. PM me an email address.

..and about time! This having a family is bad for the motorsport! 'Dried mud' is the perfect description, I've never seen paint go so bad. Still, it will clean up and you can rattlecan a few panels to make it look great again. We bent up a water-pipe mockup of the rally car cage, bought the tubing for it and had an exhaust shop copy the mockup. Then we cut & tacked it all together and made the mounts before taking it back to the shop and having them weld it all up. It was complicated because we wanted a bolt-in, so we can swap it from car to car. That made a very economical cage, and a half-cage woud be cheaper again. There must be a pipe bender around somewhere that we can borrow for a day..

Depends how well you knew the panelbeater.. he'll want it up on stands with no crossmember or suspension, and all the paint stripped back to bare steel. That makes transporting it difficult, so its easiest to get a panelbeater to drop in one weekend with a MIG. Even Bruce at On The Spot mobile welding could come and do it. they'll all be $100+ an hour unless you can talk them down. Then again, if you can find a MIG or even a stick welder we can do it ourselves, same as the Celcia rally car. When the race car is out of the shed put the wagon in and strip it, and we will see what steel we need to buy. The guy I built the verandah for bought a new stick welder for that job, we could borrow that.

I haven't seen inside a 3Y dizzy, but does it have two modules inside like a 5K?? The electronic ones I have seen have no condensor, just a pickup module and an igniter module.

The studs are just pressed into the hub, so you put a wheel nut on a stud until the thread is just below the top and smack it with a hammer to beat it back out. Then you can try whatever rims you're going to use on the axle hub to see if they will fit at the center. Then you'll have to drill and tap the hub to fit the 4-stud pattern, and at that stage you might decide to run 5-stud wheels. Of course it is just as hard to drill the front hubs with 5 new holes... and they should be a splined hole for the wheels studs, so maybe its easier to find a Celica 4-stud diff, or axles at least if they will fit the Hilux diff. I use a Celica T-series, as does Steve and also the rally car. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/

So 3K, about 60bhp & 90lb.ft of torque. 20R about 90bhp & 120lb.ft of torque. Both at 1200rpm or more lower. So a lot more grunt and lower rpm, if you cruise a 3K at 3800 to do 100kph, then 2800 would do for the 20R. The 5speed would be great, and 14" rims, then a diff ratio down under 4.0. The RA40 Celicas here have a 3.9 diff. You can still buy new crown wheels & pinion gears, although a wrecker would be much cheaper. You'd need a diff shop to install it into the diff & set it up if its a BorgWarner, the T-series is a self-contained package you can do yourself. Check this- http://rsmotorsport.com.au/files/Identifying_Toyota_Hilux.pdf

Yeah, why not..? At your stage the condition of the engine is more important than anything else, a rebuild of any of them would cost more than the conversion, be it 3K or 4K or 20R or one of the 3Y motors. So make sure it has good compression & didn't burn oil, or rethink it all again. Dave's right about the custom mounts and mods, but if you can do them yourself you will end up with a fine, reliable car. Steve had a pair of RT80 Coronas with the 12R engines and we sorted them out and drove them 1000km to Sydney & back. The 20R in a KE30 will pull a lower diff ratio than the ute will have, so you will have it over-revving for what it is doing all the time. It will probably be a 4.3 or 4.1, and you could easily haul a 3.9 or 3.7 in a ittle car, especially with small wheels. Also, its pretty heavy gear for a KE30, so the shocks will need to be good to control that diff banging around in the back and the extra weight in the nose.

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