altezzaclub

Which motor?? The pathetic 21R, the pathetic 2S or the almost-just-as-pathetic injected 22R?? ..and just what does 'quite jumpy'mean?? Misfires? Surges? It sounds like a blocked jet in a carb, but our Pulsar SSS with its injected SR20 stalls on my wife a lot.

Go buy a $10 multimeter from Supercrap. The white wire going into the ignition lock is carrying power into there, if the ignition lights work then the power gets that far and the "ignition" (not 'start') part of the key is working. The black/white wire to the solenoid should be live, so unplug it off the starter motor and test that. You'll need to have someone holding the key on 'Start'. If power is getting to the solenoid but the starter isn't working, pull the starter out and test it on the bench. If power is not getting down that black wire then your suspicion is correct and the key lock is not connecting internally. It pulls apart easily enough to inspect the contacts. If you are unfortunate enough to suffer an auto, there is a shift lock switch in there too, making sure you can't start it in drive. That might be faulty.

oooh! Motor & gearbox into your Rolla! I don't know what will fit, the struts probably need the TA60 LCAs and steering knuckles to bolt onto. The motor fitment might just be a case of changing engine mounts, but it depends on how good that motor is. You'd have to remake the plate of the inlet manifold to fit the K motor. Cut the plate off the 4 pipes and angle the pipes, then weld another plate on with the inlet holes in a different place to fit the K head.

Clever! I'd like it a T-section above the round part to spread the load along the sills further, but you get what you can find.

Has the head been skimmed flat this time? Checked for flat? It looks like another head we had where someone had used a flapper wheel or some similar abrasive disc to clean the gasket off. It rounded all the edges slightly and groound a few shallow grooves into it. I wondered if this contributed to blowing the gasket. The guy that built it was no dummy- if he did the 3K head with a spacer and extractors on a stock carb he built the cheapest neat mod he could. I would've put a cam in it if it was me...

Good point! I use a trolley jack and only jack on the diff, the chassis rails by the suspension, or the engine crossmember.

Lol! That is TINY! Around 30cc is normal for 4K. Go for it, if it runs just use it. Imagine it with a DCOE Weber and extractors on a hot cam!! Then it could really breathe. The manual gearbox would make it a lot more direct and involving to drive, much more fun and it gets the power down better while using less fuel. You've still got to go through the hassle of changing it tho'.

I'd go for the front mounts of the springs, or the chassis rail there, so the springs can be lowerd to relax the shocks. Leave the jack under the diff and just lower it as far as you need. That assumes you have a little trolley jack, a vital part of any old Toyota owner's kit!

Extractors over here are about $220 new, I'm sure someone in Rollaclub could organise both for you. What about carbs?? We can get manifolds for a single DCOE Weber to fit the K motor over here, you might need one of those mailed over too. If not, the minimum would be a Weber 27/32 or whatever was used on small Euro cars back then. Volvos had twin SUs didn't they, although they would maybe be too big. The Lynx SU manifolds aren't made new anymore, they come up for sale on here now and then. Feel like quad carbs off a motobike and making your own manifold?? Don't forget fuel in this equation. More compression needs higher octane fuel or it pre-ignites. Can you get 98octane over there? There is a formula (that I have forgotten) expressing how many octane numbers you go up for every half a compression ratio. Over 9.8:1 you're probably on 98, I use 95 for just under that.

Looks great! Well worth the trouble- in 10years you'll be still looking at it and thinking "gee that looks good..."

I have the oil seals in the Celica T-series. Sadly I haven't got access to a bearing to get the size off it. No O-ring or extension of the inner race though. Maybe the seal in mine is replaced by the O-ring on the bearing. If they are sealed bearings there shouldn't be a call for a seal as well.

Yes. You need the piston to suck in as much air as it can, under the usual running conditions of being warmed up. Have someone hold the throttle flat and crank it while you hold the compression guage. Crank it about 5 revolutions, you will see the pressure jump up in the first two and then go up slowly for the next few. That is only cranking pressure you are reading, the moment you start the car it will change, as the air is moving so much faster than at starter motor speed and it has a lot of inertia. On top of that, the cam makes a big difference as it determines the efficiency of getting air into the cylinder at each rev range. That is why motors with hot cams run badly at slow speed. You're asking the impossible, almost anyone who increases compression does it along with a ground cam, a free-flow exhaust and big carbs. If higher compressions were an easy answer then the manufacturers would release the cars with them. If you take 10 or 20thou off it will make a little difference, but you will need the other mods to make the motor breathe better. It will also lead to more piston ring wear and a greater chance of blowing head gaskets. The reason you have low compression is that the piston rings and the bore is worn, so the motor needs a rebore and new pistons to even get back to stock compression. Whip the gearbox off and have your mate take 2kg off the flywheel, that will make a more satisfying difference, & then save your money up until you can do the whole motor up. I assume finding a 5K motor in Scandinavia is pretty unlikely.

While the head is off, measure the volume of the combustion chamber, then you can calculate the compression ratio. All you need is a pipette or burette, or at the worst a couple of syrnges, such that you can measure about 25-32ml accurately. Then you can decide how thick the spacer should be to run it at whatever compression you want. The head surface looks very uneven.. did someone use a grinder on it? It doesn't look like it was skimmed flat. Why was the head taken off?? Head gasket blown from too much compression? There is a picture of a head with the plastic over the combustion chamber and the pipete I used in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

..and I've always paid $10 for the Permaseal from the local parts shop. Check all the thread holes in the head and make sure the bolts go all the way in and the nuts go easily down the studs. I think that's part of the reason the 4K suffers from exhaust gasket leaks, and the two-piece seems a terrible idea. Put some silicon sealant on both sides of the gasket when you fit it, and make sure the exhaust pipe is loose on the car when you bolt the manifold up. Once the manifold is tightened in place you can put the bracket back on the pipe. If the carb is stock there isn't much else to worry about. I took the block out to change bearings as the wrong oil filter had been used, so while I had it out I tipped it on its side and cleaned out the waterways. Never took the pistons out at all, and I only did the bearings as I was modding the head and fitting a cam. Its been a while since I did that, its all in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

That is stock- they don't use all the holes, you can see they force the circulation around the back of the motor. that way they control the flow and can determine how to cool the whole block evenly. The back of the motor always heats up more. Don't forget to throw the twin manifold gaskets away and buy a $10 one-piece inlet/exhaust gasket. Are you pulling the block out?? This is a good time to clean all the rust and scale out of the bottom of the block waterways to prevent overheating.

Get the longest resonator you can find to go under the passenger's seat. At the back get a tri-chamber muffler or a diagonal straight-through. The straight-through will be louder, but not quite as bad as a hot-dog. I use a tri-chamber on The Girls Ke70 and on the Altezza..

Well, from 2010 this is a dead thread, so you'd be better starting a new one asking that question and making the title correct. This was a RWD 3SGE motor, so there won't be answers here. ..and I think I know someone doing it, putting a Celica FWD 3SGE into a RWD Corona.

Woo.. good luck with that! There will be more and more 'other' things to do as the wedding approaches!

haha! Well done, you've built a fine car there!

How did you do it??

Arrrgh! So we really should find a good alternative, Rollaclub is probably the biggest market for them now.

photos needed!

Measure the resistance with a $10 multimeter from Supercheap.. Motor or anywhere directly to earth should be less than 1ohm. You could meaure from that fusebox to the battery -ve with a bit of extra wire and that will tell you the overall reistance. Wiring diagrams- Trace the power from headlight switch to everywhere and back again. Corollas supply 12V to the headlight bulbs via the COM wire and then earth each filament individually back through the dipswitch. If the dipswitch is crap the headlights don't work. There might be some usful info in The Girls KE70 here- http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/ hmmm.. quality is not there for the diagrams. PM me an email address and I'll send them over.

Fair enough, get it running and build a spare 4K up over time then swap them. At least you have the experience needed for doing one up now. You're only a hour or two away from me if you need a hand, and closer than that to Robinson Engineering in Bathurst, so when the car is running sweetly you just do the same with another block and head for a car that goes well and is ultra-reliable.

If it was sludge jamming it you would know! It was thick like soot mixed with tar on that Holden! You couldn't touch anything under the cover without ending up smeared in black gunk that wouldn't wash off... For dry, sooted-up valve guides you can check first. That's what the compression test would tell you, if they were holding a valve open you would have zero psi on that cylinder. If you don't own a compression gauge, buy one, it will last you all your life. Anyway, check out Google on how to position the motor for doing tappets if what I write doesn't make sense. First, pull the plugs out. (or leave them out after your compression test) Basically you have two pairs of cylinders moving up and down together, #1 and #4 and cyls #2 and #3. So when #1 & #4 move up together, one is on compression stroke, one on exhaust stroke. (At the same time the pair of #2 and #3 are moving downwards.) You can watch the one on exhaust stroke as it closes the exhaust valve and opens the inlet valve. There is about 20deg of overlap, and when those two rockers are at an equal height the piston will be on top dead center. Luckily you can check your estimation by looking at the timing mark on the crank pulley TDC mark which is for #1 and #4. So you watch the cylinder on exhaust stroke to get TDC, then set the sister-cylinder which is on compression. That will have maximum tappet gap on both valves, which should be 10thou for inlets and 12thou for exhausts. (bigger gap on exhausts because they get hotter and the stem expands more) Lets say #1 was on exhaust and you set #4. The firing order is 1-3-4-2 and you had #1 on exhaust. So the next cylinder on exhaust is #3, and you watch that until the inlet just starts down as the exhaust closes, and set the tappets on #2. After watching #3 cross, you are back to setting the #1 and #4 pair. This time watch #4 until it crosses over and set #1, again you can check TDC by looking at the crank pulley. Then do the same for the last cylinder, watching #2 for the valves crossing and setting #3. I undo all the locknuts at the start, so I know I've done a rocker if the nut is tight. Don't go too stupid doing them up, and leave the ring spanner on the nut as you turn the bolt with the screwdriver, as the gap will change as you tighten the nut even if you hold the screwdriver steady. Just back the nut off a tad until you can alter the gap with the screwdriver and do the nut up again. Some take a few tries to get a feeler gauge sliding through smootly. What are you planning for the car?? In other words... how soon are you pulling the head off for modifications??