altezzaclub

In Thailand, not that I've used, but Ebay seem pretty good with their systems for getting money back and their reputation system is important to the sellers. So long as the seller is selling quite a bit of stuff and not just a one-off I don't think they rip people.

$1700 for a brand-new car!!! You can see what Govts printing money does to the value of the currency, that inflation they induce adds up over a few years!

"Have You recently had the gearbox out, & any clutch work or replacements carried out ? " ..and if not the thrust bearing is probably worn out, or possibly the pilot bearing on the end of the gearbox input shaft. Sounds like its gearbox out time either way. Does the clutch still feel normal when its working apart from the noise? Squeals when your foot is off the pedal in neutral and goes quiet when you press it?

Get some Upol #2 weld-through primer in copper, we use it all the time on race car fabrication. Its a lot more expensive than the zinc, but they are rubbish to weld through, its just like welding galv pipe. I'd use paint stripper to start with, get all the paint off as there will be little rust-worm trails under paint that look fine from the outside. We took the driver's-side top surfaces back like this, even if the paint looked OK for 99%, underneath were little rust trails heading off in all directions. I figure it spent its life in a carport up against a wall on the passenger's side, so the drivers side was weathered.

Sure, we have it hosted here- https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/kxtqr769ojtetah/downloadfile.jpg?rlkey=ulck2pyqn6u8nd163h0awrj7w&e=1&dl=0

"You approach a big curve in the road, & the sideward force moves the oil in the sump, sideways; & the intake pickup for the oil pump, grabs some air, as it is now not totally covered with oil. An instantaneous switching of your oil pressure safety switch, turns the engine off." Actually, a hesitation, hardly noticeable but Josh picked it up in the Evo5 at the Night Tarmac Sprints in Sydney. Luckily Steve the tuner was there that night and stuck his laptop on the roof and went through the data. He expanded a few traces to milliseconds and found the oil pressure had a hiccup on some corners, and as the safety cutout was set to 48psi it cut the ignition for a cylinder or so. Its still a good idea for an accident, like the dual relay cutouts for fuel pumps in injected cars, you have to have the fuel pumps turn off when the engine stops, even with the ignition on. That was in the COR box I fitted with the 4AGE and factory loom, and now the Haltech incorporates that feature in itself. That wiring diagram looks good, it has everything you need.

Yes, BO before it goes through the ballast resistor.

It looks like there has been some electrical damage to that relay box. Have you had the car running correctly in the past or has it always had problems?

Manual gearbox? Does it start with not touching the throttle? Maybe wear in the butterfly shaft, there must be a difference between having the throttle off when the motor is off and having the throttle coming off as you lift off for gear changes. Maybe the clutch is dragging so when in neutral the idle does no work, but when in gear the drag kills the motor. The simplest would be to add a little idle throttle or timing advance and lift the idle speed a couple of hundred rpm.

"Car: 2004 ZZE122r wagon " I don't suppose its a 4WD version?? They must have come into NZ as Jap imports, like the 4WD Nissan Pulsar wagon I had.

Well, the Melbourne trip didn't happen, so its back to Blaney each day. Suspension is good enough now, the shocks are decidedly firmer than what they sell for KE70s, and now the springs are firm but not hard. The whole car rattles over rough roads still! Front springs 3kg/mm, rears stock 2kg/mm, all shocks two clicks off minimum, with 28clicks still to use. Along the way last year we had to replace the rear muffler, a three-chamber one. I bought the same one and when fitting it Josh thought my nice water-pipe tip was too small, so he fitted the same shape over the outlet, instead of inside. While we were in there we coned the outlet of the Maxima catalytic converter instead of the flat wall I had where 3" went into 2". Of course that changed the sound completely and made it much louder, and after driving around for a few months and thinking about it, I changed the downwards-pointing tip to a longer straight one. Much quieter now, I don't know if it aiming it at the ground that makes it loud, or having it too short so the sound waves bounce back up into the rear panel. The difference is hearing me turn into our cul-de-sac or hearing me turn into the street a block away, and inside the car you can carry on a conversation. More tuning due, it has a dead spot just off idle where it doesn't inject any fuel at all, according to the wideband. Its a tiny movement of the throttle, so I only ever notice it when I'm reversing into the driveway or in a mall carpark, and coming off idling it stalls on 2 or 3% throttle. It drops through that OK to idle, lifts up past it with 10% throttle on, but dies trying to hold it there, so I'm hoping a rotate of the TPS eliminates it. The Haltech asks for an input of minimum throttle and then a max, so it assigns those voltages itself. I wouldn't be surprised if the well-used TPS has a bit of carbon track worn out.

I did a quick check today and the AE86 Sprinter and the slanty KE70 have the same width from sill to sill, the same width across the rear shock pins in the boot. As long as the panels bolt straight on you're fine, scuttle, bonnet, guards, stone tray... Then doors.. but after that its dismantle and weld on for the rear quarters. So when you go to buy a spot-weld removal drill bit, buy the ones that are a solid drill with a little spike in the end on a flat cutting face. You can pilot drill with a 2 or 2.5mm bit if needed, but usually I just use a center punch to dimple the middle of the spot weld. We have replaced corners on cars, or whole fronts, and a roof or two, and the AE86 Sprinter looks a difficult roof to do, it will certainly keep you busy. I haven't read of anyone doing it on AE86DC, Rollaclub or Toymods, or a couple of other Toyota forums I have visited. Start a new topic when you get going on it, we would love to see it happen.

That's an amazing conversion, just changing the A pillars for windscreen rake and the roof would be a big job. I haven't heard of anyone on Rollaclub doing a giant body conversion like that. So they kept the Charmant floor pan and replaced the whole body above it. I suppose they had two wrecked AE86s, one red & one black, and a Charmant for a clean VIN number. These diagrams exist, although I've never chased one for an AE86. I'll run a tape over the Sprinter tomorrow.

I thought they were based on the same chassis, but having prepared an AE86 Sprinter as a rally car I don't think any panels will fit. The boot floor may be the same, check say, bumper bracket width and shock bolt widths, but you'd need to measure under the cars from sill to sill and check the width in the passenger's compartment. The windscreens have different part numbers and prices, the AE86 lies down more on the car and the pillars are different, and I think the engine bay has a different width and certainly a different height.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/63524-ke-3055-brake-upgrade/#comment-636927 " As this KE30 is being prepared for a round Australia trip,"... Well, when you retire you might convince me to accompany you in a KE70.

I thought so, which suggests Haqim is using KE30 LCAs on KE70 struts, and there's a different stub axle angle on each strut.

Nah, camber bolts are for FWD-style front suspension, I don't think they fit a RWD KE70 or 30. That 16mm is what you'd get with camber-tops, but I'm sure there is something fundamental wrong here, something incompatible between KE70 and KE30. What is the difference in the LCA length between the two suspensions? Are you using the shortest of the two lower control arm pairs?

That is a lot of negative camber! The two factors would be the length of the lower control arm, and the stub axle angle on the bottom of the strut. I don't know enough about KE30 suspension to tell you which is wrong, but I'd be checking the stub angles with a KE70 strut and a KE30 strut beside one another on the edge of a bench. The solution might be complex, bending the stub cup on the strut with an oxy torch and welding the angle in, stealing what you can by slotting the turret top holes outwards, changing the mix of struts and arms so you can use the KE30 lower control arms...

As far as I know you should hear the pump when you turn the ignition on, past acc. It should run for a second or two to prime the system then turn off, until you start the motor. Does it start OK like it is?

Well, it was Sept 2017 when I put up that odo photo showing 188888km, and this week- So about a 1100km a month. In reality working with Josh takes a tank a week, so 550Km/week, but Covid knocked it back. Meanwhile, the stock strut tops do fit back on, although with some dodgy bushes until I can get enough time to sit on the lathe at Josh's. Smoother than the camber-adjusters, and I found a pair of 3kg/mm springs from Alderspeed in China. They may or may not be complete rubbish, but for $100 I don't mind trying them. Being longer, when I fitted them today the car kept the same ride height. They still take up less room than a stock KE70 spring- I'll take the car for a drive on Sunday and see how they go. Then oil & filter, a clean and a tidy-up, and I'm taking it to Melbourne next weekend and back a few days later. That will be close to 2000km, and if I drop the grandson back a week later it will be double that! The tuning is fine for driving now, starts without throttle hot or cold, runs when cold and runs when hot, the only downside is an extra litre/100km, 8.1 instead of 7.1. I'll see how the Melbourne trip goes. Cruises lean, 15:1 or almost 16:1 at 100kph, but richens uphill or accelerating. Hard to get it lean around town.

So, you have effectively turned the cam timing forward, when you turned the crank backwards. If you're keen you could work out how many degrees you have moved it by holding a protractor in front of it. This means the cam will open valves earlier and close them earlier, and the crucial one for power is closing the inlet valve as the piston comes up. With the protractor you could measure when the inlet valve opens and closes, the stock cam has a duration of 246deg on both inlet and exhaust, and they are symmetrical around TDC on the exhaust stroke. I haven't got stock cam figures, but this sort of thing- " Inlet opens 28BTDC closes 56ABDC, exhaust opens 56BBDC closes 28ATDC" for a hot Kelford cam. Closing the inlet later moves the power up the rev range, so you can look forward to more power up top and less down low, although I'm quite certain you won't notice the difference, especially if the cam is stock. Also with that, you needn't worry about damage to the valve/pistons with a few degrees on a stock motor. If the head had been skimmed for compression and a wild cam with giant overlap fitted, cam timing gets more important. Any wear in the chain, and fitting the tensioner, will pull the cam backwards and lessen the effect of the advance. You could carefully measure the cam wheel in relation to the teeth and drill a couple more holes in it, Datsun 1600s had a couple of holes 4deg apart relative to the locating pin, and we used to drill another so we had 4,8,12deg adjustment, and each chain tooth was 16deg. "Note: motor also turns freely with no resistance ' That is important and very good news for you..

"all the people who had to deal with my insane drunkeness. " Haha- the moderators must have done a good job, I never noticed it! I just thought you were one of the guys who knew stacks about Corollas and was in charge around here. Anyway, pretty quiet these days compared to pre-Covid, or pre-Facebook page or whatever took over from forums.

You might have to make one.... bit of steel plate and a couple of pipes. It goes through some horrible curves with the slanty engine though. Go buy a single DCOE Weber and a new manifold, or....

Well, you check out your mechanism and see if it retracts, I'll get photos of the KE70 setup, but it will all be 4-door stuff here in Oz. Likely that Toyota used the same mechanisms, but the belt length will be longer in yours.

ooh nice! I don't think I've seen a two-door here in Aussie. Do you want the seatbelt to work or just look good? A second-hand one will be 40years old, sun-damaged and wear-frazzled at the edges. If you have the mechanism, get new belts put on it. If you haven't got the mechanism, I can probably get one locally from the wrecker, although every time I go to buy something from the USA the freight costs a fortune!