altezzaclub

They have interested me for a long time. Keihins and Mikunis.. There are different models within the range too. You get one carb throat per cylinder, like twin Webers, and they have a "demand-regulated' slide like SU carbs. They have rubber diaphrams in them to do this, like Solexes but unlike the SU's mechanical vacuum slide. The rubbers wear and perish, so need replacing at some time. Hunt around for the prices of a rebuild kit, you can expect to need one. I assume they don't have pump jets, also like an SU, so will have a different feel when you boot them, and seeing they run needles instead of fixed jets you can reshape the needles to get the mixtures you want. I did that for the SU's in The Girl's KE70, take a read of it from my sig below. I'd expect bike carbs to be a lot cheaper to run that DCOEs. You'll have to make the inlet manifold, a plate of steel cut to suit the head and 4 exhaust tube curves welded onto it. Then four rubber hoses to clamp the carbs on at the right angle, they point upwards quite steeply. The fuel bowl seam should be horizontal. Air cleaners next, the original setup from the bike would be nice, but that would take just as much fabrication to fit as making up something completely new. I think they run quite low fuel pressures, so you will need a pressure restrictor in the pump line. I use a $50 adjustable one on the SU's, they run anywhere from 1psi to 3 with no noticeable difference. A vacuum line for the dizzy, another for the brake booster, two lines for the 4K PCV system, one into the manifold and one into the air cleaner box. The throttle setup witll need making from scratch I expect. It would take a while, well, a month or two for me to do it, but I'd do it all myself and would sort tuning and everything. Anything custom like this costs a fortune when you take it to a mechanic, most of them can only change stock part for stock part. Jono, what were the hard parts of your conversion? Have you got it written up somewhere? Supporting mods? Well, to make them work you'll need extractors and a free-flow exhaust, a cam grind, porting the head and skimming for more compression. That would be the minimum to make it worthwhile, you can do more over time and end up like Filfrederick with his twincam 4K! If your bottom end is still strong then its all head work, otherwise start on the carbs using a spare head and swap it over when you are ready to rebore and rebuild everything. Here's a couple of pictures from my "awaiting projects" file... dreams for the future! The red car is Tommy's, the 'car of the year' on here. You can see they made a whole inlet plate that bolts onto the head, then the exhaust manifold bolts onto that again. The other motor has the carbs set too steeply, they are bolted onto a Weber DCOE manifold by the look of it..

Definately a nice clean car! I also haven't heard that one cracked head leads to another.. The chances are high the head is not cracked at all, but you need to find out why the motor overheated and warped the head. If you find a new thermostat in there its a clue, or a new water pump, or either of those items ruined. Does the rad leak at all? If everything checks out OK then maybe it is just blocked up. We lifted the motor out to do head work, but while I had the block out I tipped it on its side and cleaned out piles and piles of rust scale from the waterways. We've never had it heat up since then. Too many people didn't use antifreeze. Take a look through here- You might want to include other odd mods while you have the head off, and make sure you get a one-piece manifold gasket. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Can they still get synchros for it?? Let us know the details and the damage when you get it back.

Take a look through what we did- All simple mods and not expensive. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Yeah, if you've replaced the points/coil/condensor/plugs/leads/rotor/cap.... that's pretty well all the ignition system. A dropping voltage feeding that could be the problem, although the motor only draws a couple of amps. Certainly the rear demister shouldn't bring on the charge light and that extra missing with it on suggests a voltage problem. What does it start like?? Voltage supplied to the coil would be low with the starter cranking.

I don't know, I've haven't kept track of that. I think it happened the other night (after a couple of months being fine) because we parked it on a steep sideways slope, passenger side down. Yep, both KE70s in the garage do, both being '83s but one is a flatfront XX and one a slanty CS. The return line comes off the pressure side of the pump and when the car is running it returns fuel to the tank.. well, at idle anyway!

The Girl said her blue beast does "over 140", which astounded me a bit. I never knew she drove that fast (no parent ever does!) and I've never had it over about 115 or 120, it feels fine at those speeds.

It does hiss, but I can't tell if its pressure or vacuum in the tank. The Girls KE70 has no problems like this, and it also hisses when you take the cap off the tank. Do the tanks go under partial vacuum when running?? so the tank sucks the fuel back along the line? or are they pressurised by the return line from the pump?? Possibly in the charcoal filter line. Watch your filter after you turn the car off and see if fuel gets pushed back by the pump. Once mine is running its fine, its not a blockage causing it I don't think. The fact that bubbles come back into the filter is interesting, if they were vapourised petrol you would expect them to collapse when they meet cooler liquid fuel. Well, I wondered if its not a stock unit and not designed for the car. Maybe the inlet valve is not sealing correctly and letting fuel leak backwards That would also explain why it can't suck fuel very well when there is air in the suction chamber. Well, I knew that, but that's part of wondering if this is a stock pump. Did they find the "best fit" pump that runs OK but doesn't have any insulation... nah, just paranoia! Yep- OK, I'll pop the pump off sometime and check it out carefully. Then I'll just check the lines to the tank and make sure the tank can breathe OK. Maybe change the filter, run it w/o a cap on the tank for a while.... But first I have to get the wife's SSS N14 running, it just died last week and there are no engine codes showing up on the SR20!

Its not hard, and the hammer doesn't have to be really big.. You could make a tool to knock the outer out, it just has to be the right width to neatly fit both sides of the bearing race and go past the hub. Obviously the outer bearing is a smaller diameter than the inner, so you have to use a punch to knock the inner one backwards. You could cut a brick chisel down to the right width for the outer one, and the inner one you bang lightly with a punch on one side then the other. Push the new races in by putting the old races on them, so you smack the old race with the tools. Then just knock them out leaving the new races in place. The workshop press is nice, maybe you could pull the hubs off and take them to a mechanic's shop and have him do them while you watch.

So, the Golden Girl is a dead stock KE70. Sometimes I jump in, it fires up, runs for 30seconds to a minute and dies. About as long as it takes to empty a carb bowl full of fuel. It won't restart. The fuel filter is empty, so is the pump. Solution is to put the filter inlet line into a jar of petrol, pour some down the carb and refil the carb, pump and filter. It makes a shopping trip into an anxious gamble.. It can be fine for a month or two, then do it. After running around town for a while I park it, lift the bonnet and see the fuel filer filling up more. Then bubbles come from the outlet end into the filter. The fuel filter is filling up because it is upside down. When it is right-way up the vapour comes in the top and pushes all the fuel out the bottom and back along the line to the tank. Then the pump struggles to suck it all back before the battery goes flat. The fuel pump looks new, so I think the previous owner was chasing this problem. It seems to look and work OK, but I don't know if it is correct for the car. Its hard to see if it has an insulating block as the car has aircon and the bracket covers the pump. That extra heat sink after 20minutes of running won't be helping either. Current solutions are- mount the filter higher as a tiny surge tank, or make a little surge tank up on the firewall., or stick in an electric pump. I'm not getting too carried away as I'm changing the motor earlyish next year, but I wondered if vapour-lock was a problem in K motors.

Love it! You'd be at home in The Woolshed, we can always use a mechanic like that!

Well, I had to sign in just to say I'm loving the build!

You'll have to check wires for power as I haven't found a reliable wiring diagram for each Corolla. I have several diagrams that vary from each other. Brown should be power coming in for ignition & running. White should be power coming in for everything else. Blue/red is accessories Ignition to run the motor through the ballast is red/orange Starter motor solenoid is black/white Ballast bypass to start the motor is what is left. I can't read the colour... The "start" part of the key feed both those circuits at once. The brown comes from one fusible link by itself and feeds the ignition circuit and ballast resistor to keep the motor running through red/orange The white is from another fusible link and feeds other circuits as well as the starter motor and ballast bypass direct to coil +ve for cranking.

Nice! Love to see the 4AGE knowledge gathered in one place and carefully arranged clearly. Its always fascinating how manufacturers change things in a production run.

That's a shame- The only thing to remember is to use a long tool for big areas. Even a long piece of wood about 100mm wide (could be down to 50mm) by 20mm thick by 300mm long. You could glue/nail some thin rubber (tyre inner tube) to one side so it is slightly softer. Hold sandpaper wrapped around it and sand away. You could make handles for it or buy the tools from panel-beating shops, but any flat surface that holds sandpaper does the job. Make a shorter one for tighter curves. It is easiest to work on doors off the car, but guards get floppy when taken off.

You can reduce the compression by cutting back around the valves. Lay a head gasket on it and draw circles where it touches, then cut the alloy out to meet the circle. That will also unshroud the valves and allow better flow. If you are running a non-stock inlet manifold for better carbs, it could do with porting too. Take the ports out to the diameter of the inlet gasket. It could do with twin DCOEs, a hot cam and extractors! If the rings/bore is getting tired, bore it out to 5K piston size and fit shallow-dish 5K pistons, that will also drop the compression a bit. Certainly run it on 98octane only...

What Jono says is right... Not a 3K head by any chance?? Measure the combustion chamber volume before you put it back on. Then you can work out the combustion ratio with one gasket and with two gaskets. You can grind a bit out of each combustion chamber to lower the compression if its over 10 to 1. It will also tell you what fuel to use to stop detonation, which destroys head gaskets... Having two gaskets leads to more blown gaskets than having one. Also, timing can't be as advanced as normal with very high compression or it leads to detonation too.

Yes, as they did to allow for the low profile tyres over the last 20years. Driving 1980 Corollas makes it obvious how much better newer cars ride over sharp bumps in the roads, the spring/shock ratios are quite different. Their suspension has to soak up all the small hard knocks that 70series tyres used to absorb in their sidewalls. Tall sidewalls will make ride comfort easier, but handling aspects will have to change. People will have become used to sharp turn-in & direct steering feel, something that older tall tyres lack. It will get rid of the problem of the wide tyres suffering from negative camber wear though.

Pull out the box and strip it. Broken selector fork probably, but you'll only know when it is stripped.

They are a two-piece hose, held in at that bracket. You can hacksaw vertically down into the bracket, bend the metal aside and take out/put in brake lines without taking them in half or remove the strut from the car and leave the caliper there. I'm sure you can buy one-piece braided lines to replace them too.

My Weber list says- Corolla 1200 (3K I assume) 1x40 DCOE with 27mm chokes Celica 1600 1x45 DCOE with 28mm chokes Celica 1600 2x42 DCOE with 27mm chokes Corolla 2TC 1x40 DCOE with 30mm chokes Corolla 1600 (probably 4AGE) 2x40 DCOE with 27mm chokes So feeding 1600cc they recommend two barrels with 28-30mm chokes, or 4 barrels with 27mm chokes. One Weber 32/36 easily feeds a 2L engine, and someone on here who tried different chokes said the 27mm worked best. Larger chokes kill air velocity at lower revs so it won't suck fuel out of the jets. If you're modding stuff madly then a DCOE will be better than the downdraughts, apart from the look. Richo has a single DCOE 40mm on his 5K with balanced bottom end and 290deg cam, it seems to pull fine right through the rev range. I think he's using 28mm chokes. If you want to use twin Aisans, read this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/44694-3k-twin-aisan-carby-setup/

We haven't finished yet, but we used the RA40 LCA to get more camber. The RA40 steering arm was necessary as the RA40 strut bottom bolts are a different distance apart to the KE70's. The RA40 top mount has different bolt spacings to that of the KE70 strut tower so we have a KE70 top on the same RA40 strut, & Bilstein that we rallied on. As the RA40 spring doesn't fit inside the turret, we have KE70 tops, KE70 spring retainers and KE70 springs. Steve just told me today he has new cambertops that will fit the tower, as the KE70 has an odd asymmetrical bolt pattern. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__30 The RA40 LCA is the same as the Corona's, I'm not sure about the 'Rona strut though. Someone on here must know. So the bottom end and strut can be changed, giving bigger brakes now I think about it, but the top must be KE70. In that photo the top strut, the black one, is from the RA40 & is sporting KE70 springs and retainers, and the lower strut with no spring on is the KE70 one. You can see the spring diameter difference.

oooohh... Nice! A Leen Altezza conversion that makes any motor go better!

more or less.... Most Toyotas of similar age used similar setups, but the details will vary. Ignition light is the top bulb on the right-hand side of that diagram, its circuit goes to the alternator instead of to earth.

RA40s had a hole up in the firewall on each side for the wiring to pass through, then up through the bottom of the chassis rail and along inside that, and finally across the front under the radiator. Black will radiate far more heat than white, so I wouldn't expect any heat reduction. You could wrap them if you're keen, which does make a big difference.