ke70dave

what about the QFM pads? I have the HPX in my wrx, and it takes a few hard stops to turn them on, then they get really bitey. Though i have never driven them on a race track (only around mt nebo...) i have driven the A1RM, and they took even more to heat them up, but again never drove them on a race track. You want to go a high temp brake fluid too, The penrite sin stuff was about the best value I could find ($/temperature).

Hmm I've never come across this project before, looking great so far. I don't mind the sound of the F1s (though only heard on TV). Its certainly different to the V8s and perhaps not as glorious, but small displacement high horsepower turbo engines are certainly a thing of beauty I reckon.

I used the standard sized pick up on my ke70, but i had the local hydraulics mob braze some slightly larger barbed fittings onto the end of the pipes so it was easier to attach slightly larger hose to it.

Thanks for all your replies, i think its fair to say i should be bending the tab as well. Here is a little photo for future reference, this is slightly different to mine (photo found on internet). The workshop manual is quite specific about bending it along the red dotted line. Ill give the orange line a go this arvo.

Right so this isnt a corolla carb, its actually a Suzuki Sierra carby...but hey a carby is a carby. I'm half way through putting a carby kit through it, and i have a question about setting the float level. I think the needle valve is actually a tad longer than one I pulled out, due to the fact that the adjustment is miles out. The manual gives me photo of the float with a measurement of 7mm from the bottom of the float to the gasket case of the casting (with the float/top of carby upside down and the weight of the float on the needle valve). And the float is parallel to the gasket face. In order to get this distance of 7mm I have to bend the bit of metal that attaches to the float qutie significantly (as far as it will bend), but with it bent like this the float is now on a mean angle, not parellel to the gasket face at all. So I am thinking, am I supposed to also bend the tab of metal that attaches to the needle valve itself, and hopefully bending this tab i shoudl be able to achieve my 7mm as well as keeping the float parallel to the gasket face? Thinking about it more and more I think its obvious i need to bend this tab, but just want to make sure as its not mentioned in my workshop manual here. Sorry for long winded post, but best to get all the details down...

cross promotion... and its out of hand across all telecasts. link to youtube? i usually use vipbox...

How is vac in sump going to give more power?

Well i dunno if its doin nothing, its lookin rad! ...that's doing something!

Have a read of this http://www.rollaclub...a_tough_K_motor and remember you are talking about a 1.3L car from th3 70s, it is never going to be fast. I would also suggest against spending 4000 dollars on a k motor, it just isnt worth it. and 4000 wont get you very far it you are going to be paying other people to do your work.

yeah or something like a trade tools. You will want to use some cutting combound as well to make sure it taps smoothly.

Looks pretty low in that second pic? ah wait thats your desired. get a spring, cut it untill its about the height you want. order springs to suit the height you cut it too. you can order custom springs from king springs through repco.

Probbaly isnt the best for it but i don't think it will destroy it in the short term. What you could possibly do is run one of those see through gineric see through fuel filters inline, and put the fuel filter at a low point in the vacuum line. Then you can see if fuel is accumulating at the low point in the line. I'm going to do the above to the map sensor on my car, as the map sensor is currently the lowest point in the fuel system, so if it is getting any fuel down there the map sensor is eating the lot of it.

As far as i understand you just need to match the coil with the resistor (or no resistor) The distributer shoudlnt care what coil it fires.

Guy calls up in response to my gumtree addvertisment for an xbox 360. We agree on price, agree on meeting time, a meeting time that means i have to leave work a bit early, no worries. I get home, spend a while checking all the games to make sure they work, delete my xbox profile, check all the controllers to make sure they work, check the cables, set it all up so i can show the guy it all works when he comes, even get a bag and put it all in it. Guy never shows up at agreed time, wont answer SMS, and wont return phone calls. I didnt want to leave home incase he had a legit excuse (things do happen) so i basicaly sat around for a few hrs waiting. No show though and no contact. If you do this you're an ass.

Hi Nick, How about you upload some photos so we can all see your little rocket?

very cool! Does trade in allowance imply they traded something in for $2600? 11k seems reasonably high for the day? for a cheap car. Inflation calculator sais that 11k should be around 30k in the year 2013. What's a new corolla worth these days? like 20k?

The standard radiator in ke70s/ae71s is a full coppper or bronze one, which is actually a multiple row job and has no leak points. I think they are 2 row? But they must be in good order to work well. As opposed to a "modern" radiator, which has an alloy core and then plastic end tanks (with gaskets and thus leak points!). These ebay alloy ones seem to be alright, they are certainyl cheap. ive never used one though. The other issue is aluminium is soft, so if there is any dodgyness in your mounting, ie the alloy is allowed to rub on some steel, it will rub through the alloy in no time. So you want to have rubber wherever it is mounted and make sure it is isolated from the steel as mentioned above. I always wanted to use an alloy honda civic ek9 radiator. They have a very small radiator that is like 4 rows thick. don't take up much space but have plenty of cooling capacity.

That seal on the wall loves your car .

Does the 4ac have a condensor on the distributer? little capacitor thing?

Its also common on a spitfire. I can't remember where i read it, but apparently doing this gave the spitfire an increase in thrust. A 27ltre engine moves a CRAPLOAD of air, and if you point it backwards then it will make you go faster! if you do this to your 202, I would almost guarantee it will sound aweful, look aweful and go considerably slower.

Have a read up on how exhausts work to extract gas from the cylinders.

This doesnt inspire confidence http://www.webutations.net/go/review/toolworks.com.au But webutations sounds like a scam too...

And if it seems to be stuck, instruct everyone to take 1 step back, and keep pumping the engine crane:P

Ke55 I assume. Either or really. Prolly easiest to take gbox and engine out as one.

yeah i had to put a spacer between the spring hat and the camber top, else if you butt the spring hat right up to the camper plate the spring top hits the camber plate when the bearing moves. ...hard to explain....i can draw a pic if you can't find something that works.