altezzaclub
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Everything posted by altezzaclub
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Well, after my gold car head was found to be cracked I was giving a head by Rob and by Steve. Coincidentally Steve and I checked them out today, and Rob's had really deeply angled seats that only contacted the valve on the very top edge. I popped around to Rob's with it after I'd cut a valve onto one and he said it was from a guy who worked it over for performance but actually he (Rob) had never used it. ..and he had no idea where the valves for it had gone to or how they were cut. I think I'll make the 100km drive to chat to my engineer in Bathurst about valve seat shape to suit the head seat, its all education...
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Trying To Decide On A Reliable Small Vehicle?
altezzaclub replied to abatom's topic in Automotive Discussion
We have a '92 Pulsar SSS that was aquired for my son a few years back, and now that he has bought a new car he handed it back. Reliable, handles well, takes lots of luggage, and the more common 1.6L is probably a more economical motor than SSS SR20. On the other hand, the 90s Hyundai Excels are cheap, reliable and simple, along with the Kia Mentos. Both of them were cheap to buy new and there are thousands being driven around by young people now. -
Yep, they're stock ports alright! :laff:
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We wanna listen in!!
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Gott Damm! Anything that clean is cheating! Absolutely brand new and never been on a motor it looks like!
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Look at the builds and PM some people... Here's ours- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/
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White, blue, red, yellow... popular colours. What colour is it inside the engine bay? Keep the thread up to date with it, I'm thinking of the same thing for the end of the year..... It will be nice to see how easily it all comes together.
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Half a day to a day...
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Sounds good- Are you going to leave it rattle-can black and keep it as permanent cop magnet? Nothing screams "pull me over for a guaranteed defect" except maybe no springs & no muffler...
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Well, certainly hundreds of thousands if this article is right! Buy a "new' car that has spent two years sitting out in the weather somewhere! No thanks... Amazing waste of the planet's resources, but all those car companies are "too big to fail..." http://www.zerohedge.com/news/2014-05-16/where-worlds-unsold-cars-go-die
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nope- I've never seen one crack, although until last month I'd never see a 4K head crack either! So I have no idea where to expect them. Too much time over 8000rpm with some nasty harmonics building up? I remember this comment in the Wiki- One cyl pushing the block wall to the left and the next cyl pushing it to the right at the same time?
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Nice page there, some interesting problems come through the door...
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My philosophy entirely! If you're that busy with so many projects you would have to be retired! I remember the good ol' days of working each day and having plenty of time to do nothing in between..
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Thankyou my man, that will be used later in the year when we have camber cranked onto the rally KE70. I'd better rescue the rack ends from the RA60 diff donor in case the wrecker puts it in the crushing pile!
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Have a read of this and write a list..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/ If you want to do it easy just modify the 4K, or if you want to keep it period-correct get a 3T or an 18RG, or if you want to moderniise it go 16valve with the 4AGE or pull the motor and 6-speed out of an MX5 and drop the whole lot in.
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My Steering Appears To Be Stuffed From Minor Crash
altezzaclub replied to 86RollaWagon's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
As Dave says, put a jack under each LCA and get the tyres just off the ground, then try turning the steering wheel. Did he hit a kerb in the crash? ..or anything with a wheel? I can't see anything steering-related being damaged without some damage underneath. -
Ah well, start with the 4K as you said- I will try to get Richo's 345K running in late June and we will see what happens when you bore a 4K block to 5K pistons and fit a 3K head for more compression with a Tighe cam and a single DCOE Weber... Those mods are all easy to do and not too expensive.
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Ah- the killer with the modern motors is the ECU to produce spark, especially with the coil-over-plug ones. The old system of a distributor is terribly inefficient, but it doesn't need a computer. You could run the 1NZ with some aftermarket computer that just does the ignition system, but that would cost more too. Then the gearbox would kill it anyway... The 4k would be the way to go unless you can find a more modern RWD motor and gearbox together, like the Nissan SR20 or the 3SGE. Can you get a 5K from a van over there? The extra 200cc would be nice to have. How about a 3Y? Still a tractor motor but it is RWD and was produced long after the K motors.
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Looks factory, like it should have been produced... Its going to be quiet to drive, not like a KE70 at all!
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Why the 1NZ?? Not the most revvy engine with a bore of 75 and a stroke of 85, although it is one of the new low-fuel usage motors. How about a 2ZR-FE, 1800cc and still uses less fuel than a 4K. It would be more fun to drive for the same amount of work. Neither will have a gearbox that has RWD configuration, and you could fit Keihins to any motor if you don't want the computer to work. They would probably stop the ignition system working actually, you will need the ECU to get spark and the ECU probably needs the injection system running. All too modern for me I'm afraid.
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So, originally an AE71 not a KE70, or a KE70 with an arduous conversion to 4A-C and T-50?? One of your children Blzbub?? Either way the 4AGE will be the final step. Should make a nice daily!
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I'll bet you get rid of THIS camber!....
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Pretty damm stunning! It started off as such a cheap and simple conversion too... I also reckon white wheels, the black wheels are just so 'high-school' now. .. when are you going to be happy enough with it to just drive it around? :laff:
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It sounds like somewhere there is an air leak. Sadly you should have thrown away that two-piece manifold gasket and bought a $10 one-piece one. The whole thing is a disaster area, if you lay a straight-edge along the manifolds I'll bet the exhaust face is not at the same height as the inlet. Two different metals bolted together thirty years ago... I've never seen one flat. Ideally you should machine the two manifold's faces to be equal, but that's quite difficult, or unbolt the hotbox and do up the two manifolds separately. However the bolts always snap so a one-piece gasket and sealant has to do. Actually, first take the carb off again, pull out the jets and squirt petrol through all the drillings with a syringe or a can of carb cleaner just in case there is a bit of dirt in one. The problem could be lack of fuel as easily as too much air. Other than that, there is the carb-manifold gasket and spacer, or the throttle shaft clearance letting air in. I can't see that valve timing is involved, did you set the tappet gaps?? ..and I assume you set the ignition timing after changing points...
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Here's what I reckoned. You guys can check the figures in case I've made a cockup...
