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corollaart

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Everything posted by corollaart

  1. Good work it sounds like your heading the right direction. Like the new website as well, much better than the old one which hadnt been up dated for years. rob
  2. Disc to hub 55Nm or F, tight. The hub nut has to be done up so that its not tight or youll do your bearings in no time. But not loose so the hub moves when you shake it. Do it up firm then back it off so it spins free. Add new split pin .
  3. Wow thats a tidy 35 ,look after it there hard to find in that condition now.
  4. Agree with Kieth that castor will make it heavy in the steering .But a lot better imo in khanas etc. It should be a lot better just remember point and power :yes: . Coffs rally sprint ?? tell me more please . Coffs club seems like a bit of secert service they don't advertise they events well. We got sick of chasing there events as no one new they where on,then have to find where it was on.( different venue every event) So we just give up :down: .
  5. Ive never worried about vacum advance,just block it like mine has been for 20years. It proberly hasnt worked for years any way!! rob
  6. Has anyone had one apart ? I'm trying to get the car log booked soon and every car ive got one out of is r##ted. I'm up to no4 so far,they seem tight in the middle of sweep. So i thinking of pulling one apart see what goes on in there the only thing I'm worried about wreaking is the seal in the bottom. I'm aware they resipucating (spelling) ball,may be they just need a clean out and readjusting. The one in the car atm has 50mm play at the steering wheel and has had a hard life. All other steering joints are new 0km. I no nothing about them ,but do have the specs to adjust but not the tools (spring guage etc) Dam steering boxs
  7. Ha it doesnt sound right to me either Keith.(bda= overrated ) :harhar: Craig yep I'm the same almost have more fun tinkering around with it than competing. Weird i no
  8. From the gravel gurus site front bump 100mm,front droop 70mm. Rear bump 120mm rear droop 70mm.
  9. I would imagine it will .Just a thought why don't you convert it to coil over? Not for the wank factor, but you can set any height you wish . End less spring rates. Its just easy simple. Less friging around if you make a stuff up with the height. rob
  10. Just to add you may want to tack a brace on the inside of front rails to hold every thing together. Youll have to cut the sheet metal that comes down in front of the rails,as the cross member is behind it youll see what i mean when you get there. Youll also find that if your only bought the bottom half of the cross member,that the top is more than likely f##ked as well. It s a bigger job to try seperate the two halfs,so your better off cutting the hole crossmember out,then drill it where it joins the rails. Then fit the new one, its a fiddley job. As said remove bumper, grill ,caster mounts radiator .
  11. Have a look around this site if this guy can't fix it no one can. Lot of tar stuff and probably out of you budget and mine but you get a bit of under standing. Mate of mine just bought a spare set for wrx gravel car at 2.5 a corner its good real good and Murray is the best around imo. http://www.mcasuspension.com/infosheets/setup.pdf
  12. Ive yet to see any after market seats that bolt in,it normally needs some mod to get them to fit. Having said that ive seen some deadly fitments in bits of shitty tin with tek screws just bloody nightmares. Make sure its done right. rob
  13. Well i replyed on the other forum But just to add i think that 175 lb would be close to the money. The problem as i said with a lot of caster is that it will flog out the lca bush as it works at huge angle.(rose joint cure) I don't think that there is any 0 money cure for it just do a bit at a time. 20 year old old filled shocks. Locked diff? road tyres.
  14. Yes these are for the really helpful air pump. Just block them as parrot suggested. rob
  15. Its a t50 gearbox ,It looks like someones converted it to a cable type just looking at the ruff job on the bell housing. The clutch plate i have in mine is a PBR R7098W. This fits using a normal k engine pressure plate and a ta 22 thrust bearing.( hydo set up) The only thing that doesnt add up is your measurements . The shaft should measure some thing like 23mm od,on the spline,and 21mm measuring in side the spline. don't no if this helps or not rob
  16. Wow tidy car,and irs i thought they only come with live axle. Wheels, lower,. drive . Not often you see one in that condition. rob
  17. Really ??i never seen one when i pulled it out. Maybe its not in there. thanks
  18. Been friging a round getting lights working again all working now but reverse lights. I ve pulled the switch out of the box hooked it all up works great when you push the switch manually. S o what or how does it activate in the box. It has a small pin on the end of the switch which goes in and out. Any one have a pic of how it works?? Hopeing not to have to pull it out again. T50 early ta22 on the mighty 4k . cheers rob I
  19. Nice work Keith as all ways :thumbsup: rob
  20. Save your money and buy a lincoln 180 with some gas and it will last you for ever. The trouble with cheap welders is that they are s#it to put it lightly. Gasless is not much better than a stick welder. You ll regret buying cheap dodgey brands. Please don't do it,go the lincoln you will never regret it. Remember poor man pays twice. No I'm not a lincoln sales man ha ha End rant rob
  21. I would work out if its gearbox oil or engine oil ,no use making work for you self. rob
  22. Sorry try not use reverse or check boot for dead bodys. sorry sorry its a bit like saying magna on here sorry :laff: I no red thats one. rob
  23. I no nothing about electrics but behind the r/h kick panel is the plug for the rear lights . I would unplug it and see if it makes any difference. You need to rule out 1 thing at a time. I would wait till the auto electricky guy i think gdm comes along. rob Yep this guy ^^^^^^^
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