altezzaclub

Have you got a wiring diagram for that particular motor at all? I have a couple on on the screen right now but they show different pin numbers for the same wires. Both are meant to be SR20DET. Was it an auto that the motor/ECU came out of?? That cutout switch is another twist in the wiring. Can you put it in diagnostic mode and see if it can read error codes? This diagram shows 104 for the fuel pump, so unless we have the correct diagram we're pissing in the dark.

Those relays are in the relay box- the circuit opening relay that cuts the fuel pumps in a smash, the fuel injection relay and the electric fan relay.. that's why I used it. If it wasnt Diahatsu it would've been whatever the next car was in the junk pile that I looked through, so any car with a fuel injection relay box will do. You can wire it up from scratch with Supercheap relays, but its a lot of work and ends up pretty untidy, like when I did my own headlight relay system. If you have the original engine loom you're well ahead.

Yeah, that would make sense. Probably a few similar models have the same COR relay box and similar plugs, even the FWD Pulsars should do. Did you get a loom with the motor?? Go watch the project binkie episode that was posted up today and see how they did the wiring.

I'm a fan of using the minimum too, unlike permatex in the video on this page! https://www.permatex.com/product-category/gasketing/ Nothing more annoying than finding some guy covered the whole motor in RTV. Get surfaces clean and dry, and one thin bead of RTV does anything. I just grab any RTV, bathroom, gutter, auto... I've used houshold ones on exhaust manifolds without problems. The only thing I look at is acetic acid cure or neutral cure. The anerobics in the video above sound good.

Brilliant shit! Such attention to detail!

Buy a thermometer and check the guage against a real temperature with it just idling from cold for 20minutes. We blew a head gasket with the temp gauge reading half and no water left. That will tell you if the water is up to 80deg, if the thermostat is working, and the choke should or shouldn't be working. As the Spirit man said, the choke would affect all cylinders equally. A more interesting outcome would have been from swapping the plugs from 1 & 4 into cyls 2 & 3 and seeing what happened. All you can do is drive it and see how the new plugs look in a week.

The main injector pump in The Girls KE70 hangs from a cut-down VL Commodore mount. Its a metal cross-piece with two detachable rubber mounts that bolt to another cross-piece, so it literally is suspended on rubber. You don't hear the pump in the car at all. The only photo is this one, not much of an illustration I'm afraid. I put the zip-ties on because I didn't trust the rubber, but if the system didn't work there would've be a lot of dead VLs on the side of the road 30years ago.. Ah- here.. http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/File:Fuel_pump_pressure_reg_.JPG

We use these on the rally car & on Steve's road Corona with DCOEs. Problem free, try to soft-mount them, fitted the rally car in the boot by the tank so it pushes, but Gramps' is in the engine bay so it sucks. Doesn't seem to make a difference... although I like them to push so there is no chance of air being sucked in. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/new-Fuel-pump-low-pressure-E85-Petrol-Diesel-Ethanol-Biodiesel-Facet-type/322545930611?epid=853553484&hash=item4b193c5173:g:iuAAAOSw03lY6Jh5

Difficult... rare as hen's teeth I'm sure. Have you checked with SU Midel/Fabre?? If you're lucky they copied the SU in all sorts of ways and that might be one of them. All you need is the thread, everything is able to be customised

Ah- A believer in string theory I see...

Yeah, new hose just in case. Then take the slave off, put the new hose into both cylinders & do it up, then put the slave back on. Saves that twisting.. While you're under there just make sure the clutch arm slides smoothly back & forth. There was one of those cars at the weckers a few years back, in the second-hand car yard part. Nothing wrong with it, drove OK, just well-worn, for $600..

Those sleeves are a nice idea Graeme, its good to know they work as advertised. The Corona pair we stripped last month were not corroded inside, but filled with tarry gooey mush. The main cylinder opens up with those two tabs you can see at the sides of the end cover disc. Give the business end a clout on a piece of wood while facing upwards and the first piston will come out. Then pull off the plastic reservoir & take out the bolt that holds it on, and that will allow the front piston to slide back out. Then undo that giant hex nut beside the main cyl and there are floating pistons in there that limit the pressure to the rear wheels. They were jammed on ours, so we fitted new seals to the main cylinder only. When we put it in the car no fluid went to the rear brakes at all, and only after a couple of weeks of driving did it free up and work. Those problems all stemmed from the cars sitting for years without being driven, so yours might be sweet. I expect all the cars at the wreckers who used those cyls will be just as bad inside, unless you're lucky enough to find one that has already been renewed. The booster just needs a wire brush, some brake-clean and a spray of paint.

Cut it, don't think twice about it. We cut them to get pedals in a comfortable place for tall drivers when we run out of other adjustments. Just make sure it is not fully disengaged when up now, pop the clevis pin out and see where the arm sits when the piston is right back. You need a couple of mm of slack in it before it starts to push the cylinder piston forward.

That's the rear seal leaking, just like you said. Cylinder like this? Dual aluminium PBR. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Toyota-Corona-RT118-2-0L-Wagon-1-1976-12-1977-Suits-PBR-b/222825521584?hash=item33e16fa1b0:g:dKoAAOSwON5bmpRS:sc:AU_ExpressDelivery!2000!AU!-1 Pretty damm expensive at $240. As far as I know aluminium ones don't get rebuilt once they're old & ruined, unlike steel ones that you can hone out and re-seal. You could strip it, clean it and try a $20 seal kit off Ebay, and if it still leaks then its a new cylinder. Make sure the seals fit the PBR cylinder diameter & shape, and not just the Jap cylinder. We had trouble getting out the floating piston in the rear brake half of it, but if you can get it apart and cleaned it may re-seal OK. Get the diameter off it too, and see what else looks like that from a different car. Ford and Holden used similar master cyls, but probably larger diameter pistons. Find an exploded diagram on the web, you have to take the plastic reservoir off and take out the mounting screw underneath as it hold the front pistons in. You could convert it to a Jap master cyl setup, but that depends on bolt spacing and the reverse pressure limiter. The jap system runs one master cyl and does the rear limiting in a little T-junct box on the firewall, so you'd need that too. See how you go-

Well, this might be your last chance! Better than sex....

How high will it reach now? if you take a hinge off the bonnet will the hinge drop down further than horizontal? Then that distance can be used with a wedge-shaped spacer to allow you to open it more. If not, unless someone has got some bright ideas, I reckon you'll have to take the hinge box out of the firewall and re-build the curved arm. That will make it longer and more curved, which means the box will need to be deeper, and the firewall cut downwards to fit it back in.

Carbs lined up to go with it?? DCOE Webers or Mikuni bike carbs?

You should have all these plugs, and life will be easier if you also have the plugs that go into these. So the chassis loom with wires cut off 100mm long. I used stacks of junction strips which was simple to do and I planned to replace them with neater wiring.. sometime. Then you'll need a full engine wiring diagram and ECU pinout to find out which plug goes where and does what. You will end up using relays to run fuel pumps, electric fans, & powering ECU stuff. I ook a COR relay box out of a random Diahatsu & used that for circuit opening relay, fuel pumps, engine fan & whatever.

Have you got wiring diagrams for both cars?? I haven't done an SR20, but like quite a few people on here I've done my own 4AGE, and the basics are all the same. Are you planning on using a COR relay box from a Nissan, or making something up from scatch??

I'm the one behind the camera~ There are a couple of photos of me back in "How not to build a rally car", one of Steve's mates came up and he was a keen (and very good!) photographer. So both of us ended up in photos. I'm not sure what's happening until mid-Oct, Steve is busy, Ronnie is going to start stripping cars for his 4AGE conversion, Ado is cleaning that Yamaha up for sale and Leichty is picking up the 240RS. Always plenty to do!

Worth a try Banjo! Back home this afternoon, the last few days were busy! First was to move the machinery parked outside the workshop- That was fun! Then we used ripper to make a trench 600mm deep.. Yeah right.... So using one tooth and spending half a day on finding out how to set up the ripper properly we got it done. The next day the sparkie turned up and put in a cable, and then we had to fill it in again!! All the soil that came out has to go back in... What THIS meant, is that we can now turn the lights on inside the workshop!! ..and the hoist, the vacuum cleaner, any 240V power tools.. In fact its all very civilised. That bike is due for a cleanup and a tune then selling, its a complicated payment swap arrangement for a Rodeo farm ute that we have to rebuild. We even hauled Mr Owl out of the Woolshed and gave him a new home! but sadly the swallows are well aquainted with him, and were happy to roost right above his head! Something will have to be done about them! The 240RS is back to the dyno man tomorrow for a change of idle emulsion tube, then it is finished. There's a couple of Km of trench to dig for irrigation stuff, and this test case showed the ripper was NOT going to do it. Once that is sorted, we will actually get onto the rally car! maybe....

All the AE71s have them, and the KE70 XX model has them too. You'll also need the later boot latch I expect, it has an extra couple of bits of bent metal to make it work. Comes with the fuel cap release as a unit.

Good to see a nice build gets some respect from them.

Yes, definately quieter since instant social media took off. The 'other' Newcastle.. been a while since I was down Rectory Rd. All those people with their own version of English.. Brakes & diffs- Most guys use Peugeot & Hilux, but most people add far too much unsprung weight to a light car. What are you planning to do with the car?? ..and what sort of driver are you?? If its foot flat and burnouts everywhere, then use the big stuff. If you can drive smoothly, then simplest would be AE86 front & rear. If you can't find anything, just use old Celica front ends and sort out the steering arms. If you look up 'the girls KE70' you'll see I used Diahatsu Move ventilated discs on KE70 struts. Then find a T-series rear. Upgrade to a G-series from the vans if you're keen. I'd start at big wrecking yard with a camera and a tape measure, there are some 5-link rear diffs with discs on under a lot of vans now, and they are lighter than the ute stuff. Otherwise trawl the SR20 builds on here and Toymods, at least they have done the conversion. I always wanted to put the SR20 out of my SSS into a Corolla, but it got stolen & torched.

Well, here's the trailer as it stands.. the drawbar is sitting on top of the frame waiting to be bolted onto the bolts just in front of the wheels so it tilts. Then we need to organise some floor that a wheel-less car can slide up easily. Meanwhile Ronnie rocked up for the weekend to work on his 4AGE conversion. His blue KE70 had run over a very solid stump last year and was no longer reckoned as a vehicle, so he had bought one of the beige KE70s off Steve as a stop-gap. Recently he bought an AE71 from Dodgy Habibe in Sydney, and when we got it home we found the abysmal panelbeating in the passenger's front engine bay. So we dragged it out yesterday and he stripped all the panels off, only to find it really should be cut 'n shut in that corner... Then he figures maybe we should cut half a nose off a donor and fix his blue car, which is seriously shortened underneath, so we dragged that out today. Figuring we'd take it straight to the panelbeater and ask his advice, we had to get it on the trailer. No steering of course... but wait, the Kobar winch! Well, having not been used to years, it only winched out but not in!! After breaking off the corroded terminal involved it meant someone jamming the cable on with a big screwdriver, while someone else worked the controls. The rope goes over the roof! Well, that's the Woolshed way... through a pulley mounted on the roofrack, over the rear roller, past the trailer to the KE70. Yep, the last owner had a tinnie! ..and the application of enough grunt made it easy! The panelbeater saw it this evening and said yes, just bring down two cars with completely empty engine bays and he'll give us one back! That's the red Spirit in the background, carefully converted to a flattie years ago. It will lose the whole nose, drivers side to Ronnie's blue car, passenger's side to Ronnie's white car. So another day, another reason not to have a rally car built!