styler

if you can use the same outlets as your stock one, get a replacement stock one or recore the original with 3 core for perfromance. else if outlets are different get an alloy one made up to suit.

floating spacers are illegal, bolt on's may pass if the spigot hole is the same spec's. the rims look too modern but thats my opinion, some like that look most don't. if you are happy with what you have then thats what counts, its your car :jamie:

as long as your motor is worked and needs a bigger carb you should be sweet, don't over carb it though as the venturi vacuum signal will be too weak for low and mid range.

honestly with all that rust its cheaper to buy another car and sell that one. the repairs will cost you more in materials, time and effort than selling that and buying another shell.

you get a tie rod fork tool and a tie rod hinged breaker tool for stubborn tie rods ends, use the one that suits you if the hammer wont budge them.

+30 is the offset which is unusual.

rear air shocks? hmmm not as in airbags or anything?, I'm assuming you mean gas shocks which are conventional gas dampers (ie shock absorbers) these days, nitrogen filled to stop foaming. these are a normal replacement damper and should cost from around $100 each front and $60 each rear in parts and a few hours to replace... $300 or so? so $620 total isnt a bad price for drive in drive out no labour no tools or shed to diy i suppose.

erm... yeah havent heard that one before :sob: for qld its the distance from the lowest point under the car to the flat ground, so you get a 100mm wheel on a pole rolled under your car and if any point stops it then its too low, not including near wheel areas though. soon every state will be switching to ncop code as far as i know which will probably be the same 100mm wheel rule but check it out first to make sure.

for the distinct bolt on flare look use flare rubber strip, its usually black but i think you can get it in some colours now. you could probably find a rubber seal strip to suit if you can't find the flare stuff. for the integrated look you can bog or use a flexible paintable filler on the join and over the holes as well if you like but it difficult to ever remove the flares if you had to (eg accident / cracked flare / rust repair) and it has to be prepped well for paint. word of warning, don't go the style of forming flares of bog or fibreglass on top of your flares though, it is very hard to get right and turns into an expensive ugly heavy mess as far as i have seen, not that it can't be done though. or use a coloured flexible filler matched somewhere near your paint color, not sure if it would last against the elements but some types may.

you need to move the mounts (1x donor diff, $200 or so at a shop) ke20/25 = 1320mm ke55 = 1355mm so your old stock wheels with stock tyres will fit the rear, different width / offset rims and tyres you will have to check as theres not that much room left after widening each side approx 18mm ie: (1355 - 1320) / 2 = 17.5mm

also had both, personally id check over each motor and use the one in better condition. with the 2t at 1588cc and the 3t at 1770cc its not a lot of difference in capacity, just the stroker crank in the 3t makes more torque / less revs and the 2t is more revs / less torque. 3t would be a starting base for performance and are a super modified motor in the US, with loads of cheap performance parts eg: toyota3tc.com, brdracing.com 2t used to be more common but now is quite old so they are probably the same for local parts and avaliability.

x2 it just the way its done. you could make a ring exactly like the bearing (id/od/width) with no hole if you like and press it in. but most people accept the fact that no ones going to bump into the unused rotated cam bearings by mistake and let the holes line up letting oil through.

i say go the 4ag head on the 4k, no ones done it before and it would be sweet. no lol just kidding, dummy it up and you will realise nothing lines up. best modification would go from a mild 4k worked 4k 4ag NA / 2tg 4ag supercharged / ca18det / 12a / 13b 4ag turbo / 1ggte / 1ggze / sr20det / 12a or 13b turbo 2jz / v8 / v8 super or turbocharged (drag only) roughly anyway... some ideas for you. not sure on your driving situation but seems these restricted modifications are quite tight and don't leave much of an option for you younger guys.

a new or secondhand bonnet will be much cheaper and quicker than to repair using bog or paintless dent removal or panelbeating.

pics would be good of the area affected

bahahahaaaa! pure gold. in a word - no.

you don't need rock hard, its overboard but yes thicker swaybars will stiffen it up. sloppy? more detail?

yeah take it in, they make a copy for about $150 and reinstall done.

costs about $200 to do a ke20 - ke55 corolla with super pro bushes.

brake line spanner = flare spanner as tas ae71 said the nuts can be easy to round sometimes with normal spanners.

got the old spigot bearing out... if you had to do it you would see its a pain to do as its a tight fit, use a impact or threaded puller or pack with wet newspaper or thick grease and use a rod same id as bearing and hammer it out. new one use socket same as od and drive it in, lubricate if needed.

grease caliper pins with high super temp grease?

just for reference ke55 is 1355mm drum mounting face to drum mounting face , i think.

yeah heres a rough guide, you can get the specific tyre fitters guide for your state in aus too. tyre guide

id like to see it but id never attempt it myself :yes: